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  • Jatoba Bookcase: Case Assembly and Molded Base
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-501
    advertisement

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    The top of the bookcase is shaped with a curve that complements the sweeping sides

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    The challenge of this woodworking project is the cutting of the cove molding in the sculpted base using a table saw.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M


    With the sides, shelves and top created, work can begin on assembly of the case and shaping the cove-molding for the base.

    Materials:

    Table saw
    Table router
    Band saw
    Chop saw
    Biscuit joiner
    Goose-neck scraper
    220-grit sandpaper
    Slow-setting plastic-resin glue
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.


    Top Piece and Case Assembly

    • Use the table router and 3/4-inch cove bit to cut the curve on the leading edge of the top piece (figure A). We cut the full depth of the curve in three passes on the router table. Use 220-grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to sand the curve to a softer, smoother ellipse.


    • Once the top is complete, assembly and glue-up can begin. This is a fairly challenging glue-up and involves 24 tenons and 48 mortises. Use slow-setting resin glue to allow ample work-time for assembly before the glue dries.

      Tip: As you assemble the case, remove any glue squeeze-out using a toothbrush and water.


    • Begin by laying out all of the pieces on your work surface. Add glue to the mortises and tenons. Make sure that, as you set the shelves in position (figure B), that they line up properly with the rabbet, and that they are square.


    • Add glue to the mortises on the opposing side-piece and set that side in place (figure C).


    • Use long clamps to add even clamping pressure to each section of the bookcase (figure D).


    • Place the top piece in position (figure E) and add more clamps to secure it as the glue dries.

    Molded Base

    With the case assembled, work can begin on the cove-molded trim that will wrap around the base. For this piece, the molded trim was made using the table saw.

    • We began with a piece of stock 1-1/2 inches thick, 5-1/2 inches wide and 28 inches long. This single piece will produce enough shaped trim to wrap around the base of the bookcase. The trim will be miter-cut for a perfect fit.


    • The first step is to cut a 4-3/4-inch-wide cove centered in the stock. To do this, create an angled fence by clamping a jointed board to bed of the table saw as shown (figure F). Folded pieces of sandpaper tucked under the board will help keep it from slipping.


    • It's advisable to make test-cuts on a piece of scrap-wood to confirm that the fence is set at the appropriate angle. The objective is to make a cove cut centered exactly in the board (figure G).


    • With the angle properly set, cut the cove in the jatoba in multiple passes. After making the first pass (figure H), raise the blade 1/16-inch and repeat the pass. Repeat this process until the cove-cut is complete.


    • Once the cut is made, use a gooseneck scraper (figure I) and some 220-grit sandpaper to smooth and refine the shape of the cove.


    • Once the curve is smooth, use the band-saw to rip the stock in half (figure J). This provides the cove-molding stock needed for the base.


    • Use the chop saw, and set the angle of the miter-gauge to 45-degrees, to cut to rough size the three pieces that will be needed to attach to the base of the bookcase.


    • Biscuit joinery is used to join the miter-cut pieces together. Use the biscuit joiner to cut number-zero biscuit slots in the angled ends. The slots should be positioned right along the edge (figure K) so that the cut doesn't extend through the cove. Set the fence of the biscuit-joiner to 45 degrees, and use a shim taped to the fence to serve as spacer to position the cutter precisely on the mitered edge.


    • To complete the trim, measure and mark them against the sides of the case (figure L), then cut them to the proper sized at the table saw so that they will sit flush with the case.


    • Apply glue to the slots, biscuits and miters to glue up the trim in the U-shaped configuration (figure M). Dry-clamp the glued molding at the base, using the base as a form so that the molding holds its shape as the glue dries.

    In the segment that follows, the back-panel is added as well as some finishing touches.

    Sponsored Resource
    Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!


    RESOURCES :

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
    Author: Mark Duginske
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 0942391985

    Bookcases: Outstanding Projects from America's Best Craftsmen
    Model: 1561583030
    Author: Niall Barrett
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    Cabinets and Bookcases (Art of Woodworking)
    Model: 0809499452
    Author: Niall Barrett

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

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