DIY Network

Jatoba Bookcase: Shelves From "Wood Works" episode WWK-501

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Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I Figure J Figure K Figure L

With the curved side-panels created, and their mortises cut, the next phase of the project is to create the shelves.

Materials:

Jatoba stock
Table saw
Hand-held router
Vise
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Carpenter's tape
Clamps and support blocks
Safety glasses or goggles

Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

Steps:

• Use the table saw and cross-cut sled to cut the shelf stock to length -- 19-1/2 inches for all shelves.

  
  

• Before cutting the joinery in the shelves, lay out and cut the rabbet for the back panel. The rabbet is cut along the inside edges of both side pieces and along the back edge of the bottom shelf. First, cut a through-rabbet along the back edge of the bottom-shelf stock. The rabbet should be 1/2-inch deep by 3/8-inch wide (figure A).

  
  

• Next, cut rabbets in the side stock making sure to stop the rabbet 3 inches up from the bottom of each side (figure B).

  
  

• To lay out the joinery for the shelves, use the mortises already cut in the side pieces as a guide. Set each shelf-piece onto the side, lining the back edge up with the rabbet, and mark the positions for the mortises (figure C). Since the shelf-stock is cut wide, use this opportunity to also scribe a line on the end-grain to indicate where to rip the self to width.

  
  

• To cut the shelves to width, use the lines scribed on the end-grain to set the angle for the table-saw blade. With the blade set at the appropriate angle, cut each shelf to width on the table saw (figure D).

  
  

• With the shelves all cut to width, work can begin on cutting the mortises. As you cut the mortises in each shelf, support the shelf in the vise with support blocks to help support the router and guide the cut in the center of the stock. Use the plunge router and 1/4-inch bit to cut mortises in the shelf ends that are 3/8-inch deep.

  
  

• For the tenons, use jatoba stock that has been milled 1/4-inch thick. Round the edges of the tenon stock to match the mortises (figure E).

  
  

• Note that mortises in three different lengths will need to be cut (figure F) to match the three sizes of mortises.

  Tip: For strength, always cut the tenons with the grain running lengthwise so that the end-grain goes inside the mortise.

  
  

• Dry-fit the case on its side by setting the tenons in place in the side-pieces, followed by the shelves. Add the second side-piece and clamp the assembly together. With the assembly dry-fit and clamped in this manner, take the measurements for the case top (figure G) and base trim. The top is designed so that it's flush with the back, and has a 1-inch overhang at the front and 1/2-inch overhang on either side.

  
  

• Once you have your measurements, cut the stock for the top shelf using the table saw.

  
  

• Once the top is cut, set it in position -- checking to make sure that the overhang is the same on both sides (figure H) -- and make layout marks for the rabbet that will hold the back panel. With the shelf still in position, also make marks for the mortises that will attach the top to the sides.

  
  

• Using stop-blocks at the table router, cut a stop-rabbet in the top pieces (figure I). This is the rabbet that will hold the back panel. Make the rabbet in two passes at the router table.

  
  

• Lay out the position of the mortises in the top piece (figure J) and cut the mortises using the plunge router. Each mortise is 3 inches long, 1/4-inch wide and 3/8-inch deep.

  
  

• Next, cut the matching mortises in the side pieces. Since this is a tall bookcase, one of the challenges for this task is positioning the stock so that the mortises can be cut in the end-grain. For support, we clamped the side-stock securely in the vise and used support blocks on either side to give the plunge-router a wide surface to rest upon (figure K). Use caution if you have to stand on a ladder to access the end-grain of the clamped side-pieces (figure L). Repeat the steps to cut the mortises on the other side piece.