| Cherry Corner-Shelf -- Side Panels |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-312 |
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In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a functional corner-shelf made of cherry, wengae and ebonized accents. This contemporary piece features clean lines, curved surfaces and accents of naturally contrasting woods. The curved shelves are edge-banded with thin veneers of wengae; the legs are sculpted and given an ebonized treatment to provide a rich, dark contrast to the cherry. The layout of this project is simplified by first making a custom jig that will assist in making the dados for supporting the shelves. The side panels are made first, and the dados are cut using the jig. After the sides are made, wengae banding is milled up that will be used to make the trim. Materials: 3/4-inch cherry-plywood
Wengae stock
MDF for jig
Table saw
Plunge-router
Band saw
Table router
Drum sander
Japanese hand-saw
Hand-scraper
Yellow wood-glue
Clamps
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc. Side Panels - The first step is to make chalk layout marks for cutting the plywood stock (figure A). The large sections in our layout are for the side panels, while the smaller ones are for the shelves. This layout was carefully measured and worked out first on paper, and was then transferred to the actual plywood stock. Making a cutting plan in this way will help you organize your project, and will minimize waste of wood.
- At the table saw, rip the plywood for the shelves to width, being careful to cut exactly on the layout marks (figure B). We used anti-kickback rollers to hold this large sheet of plywood against the fence and under control.
- Add the cross-cut sled to finish cutting the board to proper length (figure C). Each shelf measures 15-1/2 inches square. It's a good idea to score the plywood before making the cuts to help minimize chip-out.
- Next, make a ripping cut on the table saw to make the sides.
- NOTE that the sides are not identical. One is cut 15-3/4 inches wide, and the other is 15-1/4 inches wide (figure D).
- As seen in the prototype, the side panels join at 90 degrees. One edge is capped with a 1/4-inch strip of solid cherry to conceal the plywood's layers. Each side panel is 16 inches wide. Adding the 1/4-inch panel to the 15-3/4-inch board results in a 16-inch width. When the narrower board is joined to the adjacent 3/4-inch panel (figure E), it also forms a surface that is 16 inches wide. The top and bottom of the sides are capped with thin strips of wengae.
- To make the layout for the dados that will hold the shelves in the side panels, a custom jig was made from 1/2-inch MDF. The jig is made slightly larger than the sides, and rails are mounted on the back side so that the sides slide into position to register the cuts. The purpose of the jig is to accurately route the dados for the shelves (figure F). The jig is made larger than the sides so that the through-dados can be made without cutting the jig.
- According to our layout, the top shelf sits 2 inches down from the top; the next shelf is 10 inches below that; the next is 12 inches below that, and the next is 14 inches below that. The bottom shelf is 15 inches below the one above it, and about 3 inches above the ground.
- With the jig clamped in position to serve as a guide (figure G), cut the dados in the side panels using a plunge-router with a flush-trim bit (figure H ). The bearing of the bit rides along the edge of the MDF, cutting a straight channel through the plywood. To ensure a cleaner cut and minimize chip-out, cut each dado in two passes.
- To cap the edge of the wider side with trim, glue a strip of cherry that is cut to 1/4-inch thick. This strip should be slightly wider than the thickness of the panel (3/4-inch), so that it will hang over the edges equally on both sides.
- Apply yellow glue to the trim (figure I) and edge of the side panel.
- To keep the strip secure as it dries, place the panel on 1/16-inch shims, and clamp securely (figure J). Let the assembly dry for a few hours.
- Once dry, trim the edge flush at the router table. We used a special fence with a rabbet cut at the bottom, so that the router bit flushes only the trim (figure K), and the dados remain untouched.
Wengae Banding The next phase in the project is to make the wengae banding for the top and bottom edges and the shelves. The strips are cut 7/8-inch wide by 1/8-inch thick. For convenience, they are cut 25 inches long -- the length of the banding on the shelves. NOTE that at the locations where the shelves meet the legs, there will need to be a gap in the banding. Therefore, 1 inch will need to be removed from either end of these bands. This will be taken care of later, during the glue-up portion of the project. In the segment that follows, the curved shelves are cut and the banding is applied to them. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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