| Open Display-Case -- Top, Base and Side Stock |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-309 |
|
|
|
advertisement
|
In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds an open walnut display case with sculpted curves, a quilted-maple back panel and glass shelves. The sturdy case features traditional craftsman touches, like the shaped curves on the top and bottom. This project provides the opportunity to use mortise and loose-tenon joinery, sculpt curves with a die-grinder and create book-matched veneers using the vacuum press. Materials: Black walnut stock
MDF for template
Table saw
Band saw
Table router; flush-trim bit
Plunge router
Pattern-maker's rasp
Cabinetmaker's scribe
Compass
Clamps
Straight-edge
Double-stick tape
Carpenter's pencil; chalk
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc. Top and Base The top and bottom pieces are mirror images of one another, made in exactly the same way. Each is made from a solid piece of walnut. On each, one face sits back one inch from the other, with a curve that slopes down to a 1/4-inch reveal (figure A). To shape the pieces, two templates are created: one for the top of the curve, and one for the bottom.
- Begin with the template for the large face. Make the template from a piece of 1/2-inch MDF that's 24 inches long by 8-3/4 inches wide. The farthest point of the curve extends out 8-3/4 inches, running to 6-3/4 inches on each end. Scribe the center-line across the width of the piece of MDF, then measure down 2 inches on each end and mark those locations. Use a bendable piece of stock to help draw the curve (figure B).
- Use the band saw to cut the curve of the template (figure C), cutting just slightly oversized.
- Smooth the curved edge using a pattern-maker's rasp, followed by a flexible sanding strip (figure D).
Tip: You can create a flexible sanding strip by attaching 120-grit sandpaper to a strip of 1/8-inch maple. - Now work begins on the template for the inside curve. Place the curved template onto a piece of MDF that's been trimmed 1 inch on the sides (figure E).
- Trace the curve of the template onto the trimmed piece of MDF.
- With the curve traced, use a compass set at 1-inch to draw the inside curve by referencing the larger curve (figure F). With the point of the compass riding the mark of the larger curve, the pencil scribes a matching curved line that will serve as a cutting line for the inside curve. Use this layout to cut the smaller template that will be used for creating the inside curve of the stock.
- The top and bottom of the case are made from pieces of 8/4 walnut that's been milled to a thickness of 1-1/2 inches. This demonstration shows only the creation of one of the pieces. The process is identical for both pieces.
- Begin shaping the stock using the large template. Attach the MDF template to the stock using double-stick tape (figure G).
- With the template attached, cut the curve on the band saw (figure H), making the cut slightly oversized.
Note: When cutting the curve, make certain that the blade of the band-saw does not touch the template (figure I). - With the curve cut, smooth the edges on the table router using a flush-trim bit that references against the template (figure J).
- With the larger curve defined, now begin work on the edge of the smaller inside curve. To create that curve, double-stick tape the small template onto the walnut stock, registering it to the center-line (figure K).
- Use a hand-router and flush-bearing bit with short cutter to route a channel 1/8-inch deep. The top bearing rides along the edge of the small template to cut a recess along three sides of the walnut stock (figure L).
- To create the 1/4-inch reveal on the opposite side, score a line at the table saw. With the fence set 1/4-inch from the blade, cut a kerf that's 1/8-inch deep on three sides of the stock. Finger-boards will help hold the stock against the fence (figure M).
- The steady pressure from the finger-boards helps ensure an accurately cut kerf round three sides (figure N).
- The stock for the sides is cut 24 inches long by 5-7/8 inches wide, and is milled to 3/4 inches thick (figure O).
- Mortise and loose-tenon joinery is used to join the top and bottom to the sides of the case. It's easiest to lay out and cut the joinery before shaping the curves, while the stock still has square edges.
- As seen on the prototype, there will be a 1/4-inch reveal where the top and bottom join the sides on the finished piece (figure P). Room is also left along the back edge for a rabbet that will hold the back panel.
- To lay out the mortises on both ends of the side stock, use a ruler to mark the boundaries of the mortise that is 4-5/8 inches long.
- Then use a cabinetmaker's scribe to score lines to define the sides of the 1/4-inch mortise (figure Q).
- On the back edge of the side-stock, lay out marks for the rabbet that will hold the back panel.
- Mark out the sections that will be cut out using a carpenter's pencil (figure R). Note that the layout provides that the mortise is strategically positioned to create a 1/4-inch reveal at the front of the stock, and there's a 1/4-inch gap between the rabbet and mortise.
- Lay out a matching mortise on the base by making a mark 7/8-inch from the back edge, and measuring out 4-5/8 inches (the length of the mortise). Use a cabinetmaker's scribe to define the boundaries of the mortise, and mark it off with a carpenter's pencil (figure S).
- Cut the mortises in the center of the side stock using a plunge-router and 1/4-inch spiral bit (figure T). Make three passes, gradually increasing the depth of bit until the mortise is 3/4-inch deep.
- Use the router to cut a matching mortise in the base (figure U), referencing the fence against both flat ends of the walnut stock.
In the segment that follows, the tenons are milled up, and the curved edges are shaped using a die-grinder and hand tools. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
| 
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
