| Hanging Bookcase -- Cutting and Fitting Shelves |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-110 |
|
|
|
advertisement
|
With the bookcase sides, top and bottom pieces made, and the dovetail joinery cut, shelves can be cut and fitted in the bookcase framework.
Materials:
Milled and cut stock pieces
Table saw
Band saw
Table router; two-flute carbide bit
Biscuit jointer; wood biscuits
Drum sander
Woodworking glue; glue roller
Clamps
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his website -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc. Cutting the Shelves and the Rabbet for the Back Panel The elements for the bookcase framework, with dovetail joinery cut, is dry-assembled to check for precise fit of the dovetails, and the assembly is dry-clamped together (figure A) This provides an opportunity to take measurements for the shelves and to cut the rabbet for the back panel. Steps: - While the case is dry-clamped together, exact interior measurements are taken (figure B) for cutting the shelves. In our demonstration, the interior measurement is 35-5/8" across.
- With the measurements noted, the stock for the shelves is cut on the table saw. The stock is first cut to its final width (figure C).
- Next, the stock is cut to length on the table saw (figure D). The best way to ensure a proper fit for the shelves is to make several incremental passes on the table saw, shaving off just a small amount of length each time.
- After each pass, the progress is checked against the framework (figure E) until an exact fit is reached.
- With the shelves cut to fit, marks are laid out on the back of the bookcase ( figure F) for cutting the rabbet into which the back panel will later be installed.
- The rabbit is cut on the router table using a two-flute carbide bit. Where there is a pin on the edge of the stock, the rabbet cut is stopped just short of the pin. Otherwise, the rabbet (figure G) can be cut all the way through.
- Biscuit joinery is used to connect the shelves to the interior surface of the bookcase. In our demonstration, the biscuit jointer was set for a #20 wood biscuit.
- For each shelf, three identical slots were cut, using the biscuit jointer, in the interior surface on either side of the case (figure H). Using three biscuits for each side will ensure a sturdy mount for each of the shelves
- Once the slots are cut in the sides of the bookcase, matching slots are cut in the ends of each of the shelves (figure I).
In-Stepped Lip on the Shelves For an additional design element, an inset lip is installed on the underside of each of the shelves. The lip is simply a strip of maple trim, cut 5/8" by 5/8", installed so that it's stepped back 5/8" from the leading edge of the shelf (figure J). The lip gives the bookcase a more weighty and three-dimensional feel, and it gives additional visual interest by providing another line for the eye to follow.
Steps:
- Maple stock is ripped on the band saw to a thickness of about 1".
- The stock is then passed through the drum sander to mill it to its final thickness (figure K).
- The milled stock is cut to length on the table saw (figure L).
- Once milled and cut to length, the lip is attached to each of the shelves using glue rather than joinery. Since the wood is glued long-grain to long-grain, the bond between the glued pieces should be very strong. The glue is applied first to the surface of the trim piece (figure M), and the glued surface is pressed into position on the shelf -- transferring glue to the shelf surface (figure N).
- The trim piece is then removed, leaving a glue line on the shelf surface. More glue is applied to the trim piece.
- With a good coating of glue on both the trim and shelf surfaces, the trim piece is positioned on the existing glue line and clamped into position (figure O) so that it's held secure as the glue dries.
A Woodworker's Principle: In gluing together the long-grain sections of two pieces of wood, the bond takes advantage of the lengthwise structure of the wood -- the structure responsible for the wood's strength. This generally provides a bond that is as strong as the wood itself. By contrast, glue applied to the porous end-grain of wood soaks into the wood. With less surface structure to adhere to, the result is a bond that is less strong. Therefore, whenever joining wood with end-grain, it's generally necessary to augment the bond with a mechanical fastener such as a wood biscuit or mortise-and-tenon. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Beds and Bedroom Furniture: The Best of Fine Woodworking
Model: 1561581917
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking
(1997)
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Complete Woodworker's Companion
Author: Roger Holmes
Publisher: Watson-Guptill
ISBN: 0823008665
The Complete Book of Wood Joinery
Author: Robert J. Decristoforo
Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co.
ISBN: 0806999500
Advanced Woodworking
Model: 0783539126
Author: Editors of Time Life Books
1998
Time-Life Books Inc.
Website: www.timelife.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
| 
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
