| Constructing the Form of the Clock |
| Amy demonstrates how to create the form of the clock with three tools. |
From "Freeform Furniture" episode DFFF-201 |
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Host Amy Devers removes the rough edges from the template and starts to construct the actual form of the clock itself. She will use three different tools:- A spindle sander for the concave curves.
- A belt sander for the convex curves.
- A wood file for the interior of the template.
She prepares, joins and routs the pieces of MDF for the form of the clock.
Materials:laminate dye-cut tin hands upholstery tacks medium-density fiberboard tempered hardboard flexible curve compass minute hand of clock pencil paper straight edge ruler square ruler spray adhesive respirator safety goggles yellow wood glue double stick adhesive tape water-based contact cement paint-trim roller clear packing tape brown craft paper paint pliers screw nut hex nut awl blue tape forstner bit counter sink bit eraser high torque quartz movement AA battery Tools: drill jigsaw band saw spindle sander laminate trimmer hand clamps wood file pneumatic nailer flush trimming bit "J" roller mallet
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 Figure A
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 Figure B
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 Figure C
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 Figure D
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 Figure E
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Constructing the Form of the Clock- Use the spindle sander for the concave curves. The sander has a drum right in the center of the work bed that has an abrasive sleeve on it. It spins around and moves up and down. Since the sander moves up and down, you can easily spin the inner curves in and around the rounded spindle (figure A).
- Once the concave curves are smoothed out, take the template over to the disc sander to work on the convex curves (figure B).
- Use a wood file to take care of the interior of the template.
Note: MDF is made by compressing recycled wood fibers together to form an engineered wood product. Ultra light is a little more expensive than regular, but it is worth it when weight matters. For a 3/4" sheet of 4 x 8, it costs approximately $28 and you can find it at any home improvement store. - Use a triangle jig to modify one of the layers to become the cleat. Number the layers of the MDF to make it easier to follow along.
- Using the hardboard template, trace the exterior shape on layer one.
- Trace the exterior and interior shape on layer two.
- For the final and third layer, trace only the exterior and the triangle-shaped jig you need for the cleat (figure C). You will use the cleat to hang the clock on the wall when you are done.
- Go back to the band saw and carve out the exterior form out of the clock on each piece of the MDF.
- Cut out the interior of layers two and three with the jigsaw.
- Just like you did the hardboard template, drill four pilot holes in the MDF to insert the jig saw blade into. Once the holes are in, take two hand clamps and secure the piece to the work table.
- Get out four strips of double stick adhesive tape and put it on a layer two which has the rectangle. Place the template on it and press down applying even pressure.
- Flush trim the edge of the rectangle on the router (figure D). Once you finish routing, apply the yellow wood glue to attach layers two and three together.
Note: Yellow wood glue is great for adjoining porous materials like MDF because it is waterproof and you can sand it. - Firmly press the pieces together like a sandwich and use the pneumatic nailer to secure the two layers (figure E).
- Once the layers are joined, use the power drill to attach the triangle jig. The triangle jig creates the shape of the cleat.
- Flush trim it on the router and remove the jig.
- In order to nest the back of the clock and cleat together, you need to cut a 45 degree angle on the inside edge. Use a router bit to run along the edge to rout the angle.
- The third layer will form the face of the clock. To attach it, apply some additional yellow wood glue, press the piece into place, and join them all together with a pneumatic nailer for added strength.
- Give it one more final pass along the router and flush trim the last layer of MDF.
RESOURCES :
Festool
Website: www.festoolusa.com
Stanley Tools Product Group
Website: www.stanleytools.com
Adhesives, Abrasives and Safety Equipment
3M
The 3M Company
Website: www.3m.com
Power Tools
Porter Cable Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com
Gladiator GarageWorks
Website: gladiatorgarageworks.com
Hand Tools
Garrett Wade Co., Inc.
Website: www.garrettwade.com
The Peck Tool Company
Website: www.pecktool.com
Biesemeyer
Website: www.biesemeyer.com
Saw Blades
Forrest Manufacturing Company
Website: www.vacupress.com
Jogensen Adjustable Clamp Company
Website: www.adjustableclamp.com
Klein Tools
Website: www.kleintools.com
Power Tool Accessories
Woodcraft
Website: www.woodcraft.com
Ulmia GmbH
Website: www.ulmia.de
Shop Equipment
Eagle Manufacturing Company
Website: www.eagle-mfg.com
Delta Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com
WMH Tool Group
Website: www.whmtoolgroup.com
Lie-Nielsen Tookworks, Inc.
Website: www.lie-nielson.com
Wilsonart Laminate
Website: www.wilsonart.com
MacBeath Hardwood
Website: www.macbeath.com
Festool
Website: www.festoolusa.com
Stanley Tools Product Group
Website: www.stanleytools.com
Adhesives, Abrasives and Safety Equipment
3M
The 3M Company
Website: www.3m.com
Power Tools
Porter Cable Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com
Gladiator GarageWorks
Website: gladiatorgarageworks.com
Hand Tools
Garrett Wade Co., Inc.
Website: www.garrettwade.com
The Peck Tool Company
Website: www.pecktool.com
Biesemeyer
Website: www.biesemeyer.com
Saw Blades
Forrest Manufacturing Company
Website: www.vacupress.com
Jogensen Adjustable Clamp Company
Website: www.adjustableclamp.com
Klein Tools
Website: www.kleintools.com
Power Tool Accessories
Woodcraft
Website: www.woodcraft.com
Ulmia GmbH
Website: www.ulmia.de
Shop Equipment
Eagle Manufacturing Company
Website: www.eagle-mfg.com
Delta Power Tools
Website: www.deltaportercable.com
WMH Tool Group
Website: www.whmtoolgroup.com
Lie-Nielsen Tookworks, Inc.
Website: www.lie-nielson.com
Wilsonart Laminate
Website: www.wilsonart.com
MacBeath Hardwood
Website: www.macbeath.com
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