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The Hall Tree Jimmy DiResta crafts a pine hall tree — a stylish addition for a foyer or entry hall. Check out more Hammered projects and videos.

This hall tree is a stylish and versatile furnishing that's ideal for foyers and entry halls.

A hall tree is an excellent piece of furniture that adds style and convenience to any home foyer or entryway. It's name is derived in part to its sturdiness and the storage hooks that adorn the surface like branches, which are perfect for hanging up hats, keys and jackets.

Overview

Jimmy crafts the basic framework and decorative elements for this hall tree out of pine, while the table and column surfaces are made out of plywood. Once the structure is intact it is sanded and painted. Lastly, Jimmy adds two pairs of coat hooks and inserts the mirror.

Below is a summary of the basic steps as seen in this Hammered project, as well as a list of materials and tools used.

Tools and materials:

(6) 6" x 8' x 3/4" knotty pine planks
(3) 4 x 8' x 1/2" pine plywood sheets
pint of black latex, eggshell-finish paint
paint brushes
(4) 3"-high solid brass coat hat hooks
mirror, 4'-high x 18"-wide
table saw
chop saw
radial arm saw
band saw
clamps
glue
nail gun / nails
drill / screws
sandpaper
router
measuring tape

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Dimensions

Overall: 7'5" tall x 33" wide x 15" deep

Elements:

(A) Boxed columns (three-sided because the backs are open, and routered on top edges; 1 on each side): 7' tall x 5 1/2" wide x 3 1/2" deep
(B) Frame/Horizontal Supports (x 3): 5-1/2" wide x 18" long (set 2" back from the front side of the boxed columns. 1st support is at the very top, the 2nd is 43" down from there, and the 3rd is 21" down from there) + (1) 3" wide vertical piece connecting the bottom two frames, and a sheet of plywood mounted behind all this bottom framework
(C) Crown Molding at Top: (7 sides—1 on the frame, 3 on each of the boxed columns—each segment consists of 2 routered pieces of pine, the bottom one jutting out below the top slightly, to form a crown molding effect All are cut at 45-degrees to accept the corners.):

• On the frame: 15 3/4" wide x 3.5" deep (for the top piece), x 5.5" deep (for the bottom piece)
  
• On the tops of the columns: 7.5" wide x 1.5" deep (top piece), x 3.5" deep (bottom piece)
  
• On the outer sides of the columns: 4" wide x 2" deep (top piece), 3.5" deep (bottom piece)
  
• On the inner sides of the columns: 2" wide x 2" deep (top piece), 3.5" deep (bottom piece)
  
• Decorative strip (attached on the same sides as the crown molding): 1/4"-thick strip mounted 5" below the crown molding

• 24" wide x 14.5" high x 4" deep (bottom table)
  
• 24" wide x 14.5" high x 2" deep (top table)
  
• Consists of an inner rectangle with a space at the top for a curved piece, and an equally wide space at the bottom for a rectangular protrusion (but no walls). The height of the inner rectangle is 7.5". One side is left open for both tables.

	Figure A
	Figure B

Steps:

1. With a table saw, cut the boxed columns (A) out of 3/4" pine. Router the edges, and glue/nail them.

2. With a chop saw, cut the frame/horizontal supports (B) out of 3/4" pine. Glue and clamp them into place.

3. Cut the crown molding pieces and decorative strip (C) out of 3/4" pine, and to create the two pieces per molding, split each piece in half, and router them appropriately. Use a chop saw to cut the 45-degree ends. Glue and nail them into place (figure A).

4. With a chop saw, cut out the very top (D) out of 3/4" pine, and screw it into place.

5. Cut out the tables (E) out of 1/2" plywood. To bend the top piece, use a radial arm saw to put indentations every 1/2". Glue and clamp all table pieces, and let dry. Once the walls are up, cut squares to sit against this curve as support. Cut out notches on the inner walls and faces of the columns (step #1) to accept these 1/2"-thick tables. Glue and nail the tables into place (figure B).

6. Cut the tapered legs (F) out of 3/4" pine, and glue and finish nail them into place between the tables, sitting in the square corners on either side of the curve of each table.

7. Lightly sand it when everything's dry. Apply black paint to the surface. Screw in (2) coat hooks 8" below the decorative strip, and then (2) more 24" below that. Insert the mirror behind the frame, and glue it into place.