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  • Ebony-Rimmed Bowl: Preparing the Stock
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-706


    PHOTO

    The hand-turned sycamore bowl.
    PHOTO

    The ebony rim of this turned wood bowl provides a striking contrast to the lighter sycamore.
    In this episode of DIY's Wood Works, host David Marks creates a hand-turned bowl from sycamore. The bowl is turned by hand on the lathe and rimmed with ebony using a special laminating process. The curly figure of the English sycamore is showcased by the contemporary shape of this bowl. The laminated rim of exotic ebony adds a dark, rich contrast to the classic design.

    In this first segment, David prepares the sycamore and ebony stock and begins the turning process.

    Materials:

    Sycamore stock
    Ebony stock for rim
    Alder or scrap-wood for sacrificial blocks
    Lathe
    Turning faceplate
    Turning hand-tools -- gouges, scrapers, parting tool, etc.
    Jointer
    Drum sander
    Band saw
    Pneumatic angle grinder
    Disc sander
    Jig saw
    Cordless drill
    Circle tracer
    Circle template
    Calipers; double-sided calipers
    Epoxy glue
    Cyanoacrylate glue
    Clamps
    Straight-edge
    Compass
    Carpenter's pencil
    Sandpaper, various grits
    Safety glasses or goggles
    Protective clothing for wood-turning
    Face shield for wood-turning

    Safety Alert: Wear protective clothing to protect yourself from flying chips and shavings when woodturning. Also wear a face shield to protect your face and eyes.

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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    PHOTO

    Figure A

    Preparing the Stock


    • David begins by cutting a block from a raw piece of English sycamore using a jig saw. The block is about 11" square and 2" thick.

    • Joint one face flat using push blocks to apply good downward pressure so that the face is made perfectly flat (figure A).

    • Use a circle tracer and mark out the largest possible diameter on the block (figure B). In our case, the circle is 10-1/2" in diameter.

    • Use a band-saw to rough-cut the circular shape (figure C), cutting close to the line.
      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C


    • While at the band saw, you can also cut a block of ebony into 1/4" strips. These strips (figure D) are the laminates for the rim of the bowl.

    • Drum-sand the ebony strips to a uniform thickness of 3/16".

    • The final piece that needs to be cut is the sacrificial block that will be used to fasten the sycamore to the faceplate. Cut a small piece of alder, 3" in diameter and 2" thick (figure E).
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E


    • Use quick-setting epoxy to join the sacrificial block to the sycamore blank. Mark center-lines on both the sycamore and blank. Use the center-lines to align the sycamore and block (figure F).

    • Secure the metal faceplate to the block using screws (figure G).
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G


      PHOTO

      Figure H

    • The sycamore bowl will be turned using a one-way 2436 Lathe (figure H), a heavy and versatile lathe. The full length of the bed and the 24" swing of the lathe won't be required for this project, but extra stability of this lathe and the variable speed control will be useful.

    • Safety Tip: Once you've mounted the stock on the lathe, stand off to one side, well out of the way, and turn the lathe on to test the fit. It's best to make sure that the stock is secured before you begin working with the tools.

    • Turning for this bowl begins with a scraper using the tool-rest (figures I and J). To attach the ebony to the rim, you'll want to flatten an area about 2" wide around the face.
      Photo

      Figure I

      Photo

      Figure J



    • Reposition the tool-rest near the foot (i.e., bottom) of the bowl blank and use a diamond-shaped parting tool to clean up the base of the bowl (figure K).

    • Use calipers to measure and mark the foot of the bowl. The foot should be 4-1/4" (figure L).
      Photo

      Figure K

      Photo

      Figure L


    • Center the calipers around the base and make a mark. Hold a pencil in position at the mark and turn the blank to trace the outer diameter of the foot.

    • To mark the outside diameter of the rim, use a handmade circular plexi-glass template. Set the template on the face of the bowl blank and make a mark (figure M). Our template is marked in segments to show how the eight strips of ebony will create the laminated circular rim.

    • Rest the pencil on the tool rest so that the point is aligned with the mark from the template. Turn the lathe on slow speed to trace the outer diameter of the rim (figure N).
      Photo

      Figure M

      Photo

      Figure N


      PHOTO

      Figure O

    • Replace the standard tool-rest with the curved tool rest.

    • The next tool used is the super-flute bowl gouge. Using the sharp bowl gouge, shape the outside profile of the bowl. Work around the sides and bottom of the bowl (figure O), stopping to inspect your work periodically. Check for tear-outs. If you encounter any, mark these areas with a pencil, then shape until the pencil lines are gone.

    • Next, focus on rounding the outside top-edge -- or shoulder -- of the bowl.

    • Turning Technique: For this particular application, rotate the bowl-gouge close to the wood so that the bottom edge cuts and the top edge is about 1/8" from the stock (figure P). Rotate the bowl gouge, and gradually rotate the shoulder of the bowl to the line (figure Q).
      Photo

      Figure Q

      Photo

      Figure P


    With the shoulder shaped, the outside of the bowl is now defined. Since this is highly figured wood, the possibility of tear-out is high. Proper tool positioning and cutting action is essential.

    PHOTO

    The cutting tool should always be supported by the tool rest before it contacts the wood.
    Turning Tips

    • Always use the tool rest by placing it in close proximity to the wood.
    • Never let the tool contact the wood before supporting it on the tool rest.
    • Always use sharp turning tools. Dull tools can be more dangerous than properly sharpened ones. You may need to re-sharpen a tool more than once during a particular project.
    • Always "let the wood come to the tool." Don't force the tool into the wood.


      RESOURCES :

      The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
      Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
      Publisher: Taunton Press
      ISBN: 1561580619


      Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
      Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
      Publisher: Taunton Press
      ISBN: 1561583456

      David Marks Website
      David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com


      Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
      Model: 080836878
      Author: Rick Peters
      (2000)
      Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
      Website: www.sterlingpub.com

      Fine Woodworking
      A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
      The Taunton Press Inc.
      Website: www.taunton.com

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