DIY Network

Redwood Garden-Gate: Stock Prep From "Wood Works" episode WWK-607

	This garden gate is constructed from durable redwood, one of the best wood materials for exterior projects.
	The gate is highlighted by a copper panel with a uniquely patterned patina finish.

In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a garden gate with a copper panel specially treated to give a patina effect.

This functional outdoor garden-gate is a simple frame-and-panel construction. It's most distinguishing feature is stunning solid-copper panel with unique patina. The frame is constructed from solid redwood and is joined with mortise and loose tenons. It stands six feet tall and three feet wide. For design, the top rail and styles are arched. The panel is made from 1/2-inch exterior grade plywood and covered with sheets of copper, attached with epoxy. The copper panel is treated with a cold patina process to give it an aged-mottled-blue-green appearance. The panel is then secured in place with strips of redwood and brass screws. Finally, decorative wrought iron hinges make this door ready for hanging.

Materials and tools used in building the frame:

Salvaged redwood stock
MDF for template
Bendable wood strip
Table saw
Jointer
Power-planer
Drum sander
Band saw
Table router; flush-trim bit
Plunge router; 3/4" carbide bit
Cordless drill; Forstner bit
Jig saw
Steel brush
Clamps
Hand scraper
Pattern-maker's rasp
Sanding strip
220-grit sandpaper
Waterproof polyurethane glue
Straight-edge
Compass
Brad-driver and brads
Wire snips
Carpenter's pencil or marker
Bricks
Blue masking tape
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

advertisement

"Green" Woodworking

Redwood is one of the best materials to use for an exterior project. It's resistant to decay, fungus and bugs. However, rather than using newly milled redwood stock, and contributing to the depletion of our disappearing redwood forests, David Marks advocates the use of salvaged stock. The raw planks used in this project were reclaimed from old wooden tanks that were once used to age wine in the northern California wine country. In fact, the lingering scent of wine was discernible when the stock was cut.

	Figure A
	Figure B

Garden Gate: Stock Prep

• Before cutting, clean the wood surface with a steel brush to loosen and remove debris. Also inspect the wood closely for any nails or screws and remove them.

  Tip: Redwood is a soft wood, so use caution to avoid denting the surface and fibers of the wood.

• Since the edges of our reclaimed stock were beveled, we ripped the sides at the table saw to make them straight (figure A).

• Once both edges are trimmed, cut raw planks from the stock that are 2-1/8" square.

• At the jointer, flatten one face and one edge of each plank (figure B).

• At the planer, make the opposing sides parallel and flat.
  

  	Figure C
  	Figure D

  
  

• At the table saw, cut each piece to approximate length. This project requires six pieces that are a little longer than 72" -- for the stiles. For the rails, eight pieces are required, each slightly longer than 24" (figure C).

• With the stock prepped, rotate each piece 90 degrees to expose the vertical grain for each stile and rail. The stiles each consist of three lengths edge-glued together. For the rails, four pieces are required for each to allow for the curve that will be cut later.

• For aesthetic reasons, match each piece so that the grain will flow around the frame, making each plank appear as if it came from a single, solid piece of wood. When the frame is assembled, the subtle vertical grain will recede and focus attention on the copper panel.

• Use waterproof polyurethane glue to glue-up the elements. Clamp the pieces securely (figure D) until the glue has cured.
  

  
  

• Once the glue has dried, remove any excess glue using a hand scraper.

• Flatten one side of each element at the jointer (figure E).

• Then make the sides parallel, and bring the pieces all to the same thickness, at the drum sander (figure F).

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

  
  

• Cut the frame stock to final length using the cross-cut sled at the table saw (figure G).

• The two stiles (figure H) should be cut 72" long. The top and bottom rails should be cut to 24" long.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

• To make the curve for the top rail, make a full-scale template from MDF. (The sheet should be wider than the 36" total width of the finished gate.) First, use a straight-edge to trace a center-line onto the MDF, then measure over 12 inches and lay out a line to represent the edge of the 6"-wide stile. Do the same on the opposing side.

• Using a bendable strip of wood and bricks, trace a pleasing curve to represent the top of the rail.

• Re-align the bendable strip 6 inches below the first curved line to trace a line representing the bottom curve of the rail (figure I).

• Rough-cut the curve of the rail-template at the band saw (figure J).

• Smooth the curve with a pattern-maker's rasp followed by a sanding strip.

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  
  

• Align the template onto top-rail stock and trace the shape of the curve onto the redwood stock (figure K).

• To hold the frame together, mortise and loose-tenon joinery is used. Because of the size of the gate, two large mortise-and-tenons are used in each bottom corner. As seen on the prototype, two mortise are centered in the stock, started 3/4" off the ground and spaced 1/2" apart (figure L). For the top rail, one large mortise will be placed on each side, 65-1/2" from the bottom, to accommodate the curved top rail.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

  
  

• To get the precise placement of the mortises on the top rail, dry-fit the frame elements together. Place the top rail so that the top of the curve is at 72". Measure up 65-1/2" from the bottom of the frame, and lay out the 3-1/2" mortises on both sides (figure M).

• Now draw the mortise marks for the bottom rail. Similar to the top mortises, these will measure 3/4" wide, 3-1/2" long and 2-1/24" deep -- with 1/2" between the two mortises (figure N).

  Figure M

  Figure N

  
  

  Figure O

  
  

• Though it may not be necessary with the soft redwood, it's good practice to drill pilot holes in the stock with a Forstner bit. This will allow the router bit to get a clean start.

• With the stock secure, use a plunge router and 3/4" carbide bit to make the mortises (figure O).
  

  
  

• Finally, cut out the curved shape of the top-rail at the band saw (figure P), then flush-trim only the bottom curve at the router table, using the template as a guide (figure Q). The top curve will be flush-trimmed later.

  Figure P

  Figure Q

  
  

  
  

  
  

  RESOURCES :
  

  The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
  Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
  Publisher: Taunton Press
  ISBN: 1561580619
  

  
  Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
  Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
  Publisher: Taunton Press
  ISBN: 1561583456
  

  David Marks Website
  David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
  

  
  Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
  Model: 080836878
  Author: Rick Peters
  (2000)
  Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
  Website: www.sterlingpub.com

  Fine Woodworking
  A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
  The Taunton Press Inc.
  Website: www.taunton.com

  ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:
  	Redwood Garden-Gate: Stock Prep
  	Redwood Garden-Gate: Frame Assembly
  	Redwood Garden-Gate: Copper-Patina Panel
  	Redwood Garden-Gate: Finishing Touches
  	WEB-EXTRA: Garden-Gate -- Materials List and Cut-Sizes