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  • Gilded Frame: Preparing the Stock
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-601


    PHOTO

    Since this picture frame is covered in paint and gilding, there's no need to use an expensive hardwood to build the frame. We used alder, a stable and affordable hardwood that holds a crisp detail when shaped.
    PHOTO

    Construction of this frame features spline-mitered joinery and a raised decorative bead.
    In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks builds a hardwood picture frame with spline-mitered joinery and a raised decorative bead. He then finishes the frame with gilding of silver leaf and a chemically produced patina. He begins in this segment by preparing the stock and assembling the basic form of the frame. The steps in the project are outlined below.

    The simple design of this picture frame is the perfect introduction to a new finishing treatment that's centuries old -- gilding. The art of gilding dates back to the ancient Egyptians who used gold leaf to embellish furniture, utensils, and even tombs. In this project, the picture frame itself is simply constructed using the closed-grain hardwood, alder. To build the frame, we miter the corners and reinforce the joints with splines. A decorative beading cut along the face creates a shadow line, adding depth and interest to the frame. And, to embellish the frame, transforming it from simple to simply elegant, the frame is painted with cobalt-blue Japan paint, then gilded to give the a stunning patina. The stylized finishing treatment, revealing blues and green hues of the patina which flow seamlessly into the gold leaf and red base, adding to the unique character of this project.

    Approximate dimensions: 30" long x 16" wide.

    Materials:

    Alder stock
    Table saw
    Mitering jig
    Jointer
    Power planer
    Table router; beading bit
    Plastic resin glue
    Band clamp
    Clamps
    Cork blocks
    Carpenter's square
    Chalk
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David
    Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A

    Preparing the Stock

    • We begin by milling the frame elements from 8/4-stock. Using the table saw, rip the alder board into four pieces, each 1-7/8 inches square. Cut two pieces to a length of 34 inches and two shorter pieces to a length of 28 inches (figure A).


    • At the jointer, flatten two sides of each piece (figure B). Once the first side has been jointed, mark it with chalk. Then place the marked side against the fence and joint the second side, then mark it as well.

    • Flatten the two remaining sides of the stock using the power planer (figure C) so that all of the sides are parallel.
      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C




    • Use a 1/4-inch beading bit (figure F) to create the bead on all of the frame stock.

    • An auxiliary fence on the table router houses the bit and supports the stock to ensure a safer cut. Before creating the bead on our alder stock we made some test cuts on an inexpensive piece of poplar (figure G).
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G



    • Rather than removing the waste stock around the bead with a router, we opted to use a table saw. As a safety measure, place the bead placed against the fence so that the blade is not exposed when cutting (figure H). Since our bead was centered in the frame, the stock simply needed to be flipped to cut the waste stock on the other side.

    • With the bead cut, you can move on to cutting the rabbet. Our rabbet was 1-1/8" by 3/4" (figure I).
      Photo

      Figure H

      Photo

      Figure I


    • Cut the thinner side of the rabbet first using the table saw. With the bead facing away, make the first cut (figure J).

    • Adjust the fence and raise the blade to make the second cut (figure K). This will make the second cut safer since the remaining stock is thicker and provides a stable platform.

      Safety Tip: When making these cuts at the table saw, use a push-stick to move the stock over the blade and carry the waste-cut with the stock. This will prevent the large cut-off piece from flying back at you.
      Photo

      Figure J

      Photo

      Figure K


    • With the four sides of the frame complete, work can now begin on cutting the miters using the mitering jig at the table saw. To determine the length of each side, we made a sizing template from MDF to approximate the size of the framed art. The template was cut to dimensions of 30-1/8" by 24-1/8". The extra 1/8" on each dimension provides a little extra "play" to help ensure that the artwork will fit in the frame.

    • Use the template as a spacer, placing it between the two long side-pieces to determine the measurement for the overall width of the frame (figure L).

    • Use the same technique to determine the exact length of the long sides (figure M). Using this information, you can set up the stop-block on the miter jig to get the exact cuts you need.
      Photo

      Figure L

      Photo

      Figure M


    • Using the miter-jig on the table saw, first make a trim-cut to create the first miter(figure N).

    • Then place the stock up against the stop-block on the opposite side of the jig to cut the second miter, cutting the board to the exact length(figure O).

    • After cutting the two short pieces, re-set the stop block to cut the longer sides.
      Photo

      Figure N

      Photo

      Figure O


    • Use plastic resin-glue to glue up the frame. This type of glue will not swell or telegraph through the gilded surface. Apply glue to the miters (figure P) and fit the corners together

    • Bring the corners together snugly by tightening a band-clamp around the frame (figure Q).
      Photo

      Figure P

      Photo

      Figure Q


      PHOTO

      Figure R

    • Position cork blocks to protect the wood, then add a few bar clamps to hold the frame securely as the glue hardens(figure R).

    • Important: Check to make sure that your frame is square. If necessary, you can adjust it using the clamping pressure.

    • Allow the glue to bond overnight before continuing work on the frame

    In the segment that follows, we add strength to the mitered frame using spline joinery at the corners.


    RESOURCES :


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    Fine Woodworking: Making Picture Frames
    Author: Stuart Altshuler
    # 014032
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: