DIY Network

Inlaid Serving Tray: Bottom Panel, Frame and Joinery From "Wood Works" episode WWK-508

With the marquetry inlay complete, work can begin on the structural elements of the tray -- the bottom panel and shaped bubinga frame. The frame is assembled using biscuit joinery.

Materials:

Bubinga stock
Apple plywood
Table saw; cross-cut sled
Miter gauge
Table router; 1-inch roundover bit
Belt sander
Jointer
Biscuit joiner
#10 and number-zero wood biscuits
Hand scraper
Band clamp
Bar clamps
Pattern-maker's rasp
Yellow woodworker's glue
Glue roller
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when
working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

Bottom Panel

• Before gluing up the veneer, make sure that the inlaid surface is smooth and flat. Use a hand scraper to remove any excess glue and flatten the surface.

• Cut the substrate from apple plywood. Cut it slightly oversized at the table saw.

• Cover one side of the apple-ply substrate with yellow woodworker's glue using a roller to ensure even coverage. Add glue evenly to one side of the yellow satinwood veneer and position it on the substrate.

• Add more glue to the other side of the substrate, and to the bottom surface of the inlaid veneer. Then carefully position the veneer on top of the substrate (figure A).

• Add tape to the edges of the "wood sandwich" prevent the veneers from slipping.

• To achieve an even bond, use cauls and multiple clamps to achieve even clamping pressure across the surface of the veneer. With the wood sandwich between two pieces of 3/4-inch MDF, position three long cauls on top and clamp them to the assembly table (figure B). The cauls and clamps apply uniform pressure so that the veneers bond evenly to the substrate. Allow several hours for the glue to harden. (This clamping method is used in lieu of a vacuum press technique which is frequently used in gluing up veneers.)

• Once the veneered panel has dried, remove the excess hardened glue from one side using a belt sander (figure C).

• Flatten the same edge at the jointer.

• Use the jointed edge as a straight reference against the fence as you rip the veneered panel to its final width of 8-3/4 inches at the table saw (figure D).

• Use the cross-cut sled to cut the panel to its final length of 19-3/4 inches at the table saw(figure E).

These final cuts are made evenly so that the inlaid marquetry remains centered in the panel.

	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I
	Figure J
	Figure K
	Figure L
	Figure M

Frame and Joinery

With the satinwood panel complete, work can begin on the frame. For the frame stock, mill the 8/4" bubinga stock to 2-5/8 inches wide by 1-5/8 inches thick.

• Once the stock has been milled to proper dimensions, the frame elements can be cut to length. Since the frame stock will later be mitered, it's first cut slightly oversized.

  At the table saw, use a stop-block as a reference, and cut the two short frame pieces to 16 inches in length.

  Remove the stop-blocks and cut the two long frame pieces to 27 inches in length using the table-saw fence as a reference (figure F).

  Use the final measurements of the veneered panel to determine the size of the frame (figure G).

  Using a mitering jig a the table saw, make the angled cuts on the bubinga frame stock (figure H).

  Before cutting the joinery and assembling the frame, shape the edges of the frame stock at the table router. Curve the inside edge of the frame using a 1-inch roundover bit. Since bubinga is a very dense hardwood, make the cut in several passes.

  Next, use a band-clamp to check the fit of the frame and panel. With the assembly still clamped, use layout sticks to mark the positions of the slots for the biscuit joinery (figure I). Four slots will be cut on the long sides, and two on the short sides.

  With the frame stock clamped to the workbench, position the biscuit-slot cutter on top of a 1/8-inch shim to cut the #10-size biscuit slot (figure J). The shim is used since the satinwood panel is to be recessed 1/8-inch from the bottom of the frame.

  Cut the corresponding slots in the panel without the 1/8-inch shim.

  Finally, cut the slots for the number-zero biscuits in the miters of the frame stock. The smaller biscuit is used on the corners to allow for the cove cut that will be made in the frame later (figure K).

  Conduct a final dry-fit to ensure that the pieces fit together perfectly with the biscuits.

  Apply yellow glue to all the slots, slot-faces and biscuits.

  With the biscuits in place, align the frame pieces (figure L) and use a band-clamp to bring all of the pieces snugly together.

• Add even clamping pressure to hold the assembly secure as the glue dries (figure M).

The band clamp serves to hold the assembly together, while the additional clamps serve to pull the miters tight and square.

In the segment that follows, the frame is given a decorative cove cut and the tray receives a sprayed-on lacquer finish.