| Table-Top Clock -- Case |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-307 |
|
|
|
advertisement
|
Case for the Table-Top Clock With the clock face assembled and cut to final dimensions, work can now begin on creating the solid cherry case that houses the clock. As seen in the prototype, the size of the horizontal dividers for the case is dictated by the final dimension of the clock face (figure A). To hold the back panel in place, stop-rabbets are cut in the back edges of the two side-pieces, and a through-rabbet is cut in the top horizontal piece (figure B).
Materials: Cherry stock
Table saw; cross-cut sled
Band saw
Biscuit joiner; zero biscuits
Table router; spiral carbide-bit
Drill press
Sharp chisel
Awl
Yellow wood-glue
Carpenter's pencil
Clamps
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Steps:
- Make the stop-rabbets in the longer side-pieces at the router table using a spiral carbide-bit (figure C). Cut the rabbets 1/2-inch wide by 3/8-inch deep, and are made in two passes. A stop-block is used when cutting the rabbets in the side pieces to produce a stop-rabbet at the top end of the case.
- For the top divider, cut a through rabbet at the router table (figure D). Since this is a through rabbet, a stop-block is not needed.
- Raise the bit, and make the second pass to finish the rabbet on the top divider (figure E).
- Use a sharp chisel to square up the corners of the stop rabbets (figure F).
- Since the shelves in the finished piece will need to sit flush with the back panel (figure G), the shelves are trimmed to precise length and width at the table saw (figure H).
- The final piece needed for the case is the decorative curved base plate. This piece must be 9-3/4 inches long by 3 inches wide. To create the curved piece, design the curve you want and make a template out of MDF. Use the template to lay out the curve onto the stock, making certain that it's centered (figure I).
- Rough-cut the curve at the band saw (figure J), leaving the piece just a bit oversized.
- Attach the stock to the MDF template with double-stick tape, and flush-trim the base plate at the router table (figure K).
- Cut the base plate to proper dimension at the table saw, using the cross-cut sled (figure L).
- Biscuit joinery and zero-biscuits are used to join the case pieces together ( figure M).
- In the finished piece, the clock face and base plate are set back slightly (figure N) to create a reveal that adds visual depth to the piece.
- For the edges of the clock face, the biscuit slots are centered in the stock, and 2-1/2 inches in from each edge (figure O).To achieve the reveal at the front of the case, the matching slots on the sides are set back 1/4 inch from the front edge.
- The exploded view of the elements (figure P) shows the positioning of the slots for the biscuit joinery. Corresponding slots are cut on the insides of the side pieces and the ends of the horizontal dividers. The biscuit slots on the ends of the horizontal dividers are centered in the stock.
- To join the base plate, matching slots are cut on the sides and the top edge.
- When using biscuit joinery, it's advisable to do a dry-fit to ensure proper fit before glue-up begins.
- Drill a hole in the face to hold the clock mechanism. First, tap the center with an awl, to mark the exact center. At the drill press, drill a hole 1/4-inch in diameter (figure Q). Place the clock face on a piece of scrap wood to prevent chip-out during drilling.
- With all of the elements complete, glue-up can now begin. Glue-up is done in two stages, using yellow glue. First, join the clock face with the top and middle dividers (figure R).
- Dry-clamp the sides to the face -- using them as cawls -- to pull everything together (figure S). Let this first assembly dry for about 2 hours.
- Unclamp the assembly, add glue to the sides of the outer case, and complete the assembly by adding the sides and the base plate (figure T).
- Apply plenty of clamping pressure to hold the assembly secure as the glue dries (figure U).
In the segment that follows, the top is added to the case, and a wood finish is applied.
Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
| 
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
