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  • Pyramid Art Pedestal -- Platform Top
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-210
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    Click here to view a larger image.

    The top for the pyramid pedestal is made from three stacked frames made of wengae. Each frame has beveled edges, creating an effect that accents the taper of the base. The platform surface is inset with a tile of green marble.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Figure O

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    Figure P

    Wengae Top Platform

    With the plywood base assembled and laminated in lacewood veneer, the next phase in this project is to fashion the top platform. The top for this piece is made from three stacked frames, each constructed from wengae (figure A).

    The bottom frame is 10 inches square, while the middle frame is 12 inches square and the top frame is 14 inches square. The increasing dimensions of the consecutive squares creates a stair-step pattern that opposes the angle of the pyramid base (figure B).

    Wengae, the wood chosen for this element, is hardwood that grows in central Africa. It is often used in place of ebony because of its rich, dark color and attractive brown-and-black contrasting grain patterns. Wengae is a very dense wood and splinters easily, so use extra caution when working with it.

    Materials:

    Wengae stock
    Table saw
    Mitering jig
    Biscuit jointer
    #10 biscuit wafers
    Band clamp
    Hand scraper
    Yellow woodworker's glue
    Chalk; carpenter's pencil
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources.

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    Steps:

    Begin with the top frame. Cut a rabbet in the stock for the top frame. This rabbet will hold the marble piece that will serve as the display surface. The marble is 3/8-inch thick. With the table-saw blade raised 3/8-inch, make the first pass on the table saw (figure C).

    Re-set the blade to 1-1/2 inches, and make a second pass with the stock placed on its edge (figure D) to finish cutting the rabbet.

    With the rabbet complete, use a mitering jig (figure E) to cut the frame stock to the proper lengths. With the stop-block set to 14 inches, make the miter cuts for the top frame (figure F).

    To cut the stock for the middle frame, re-set the stop-block on the mitering jig to 12 inches, then make the cuts on the four sections for that frame.

    Finally, re-set the stop-block to 10 inches to cut the stock for the lower frame (figure G).

    Biscuit joinery, using #10 biscuits, will be used to join the frames. Typically, the biscuit slots would be cut in the center of the frame. However, since these finished frames will be beveled (figure H) and some of the stock removed, the biscuits must be offset slightly to avoid letting the biscuits show.

    To offset the slots, measure in 1-1/2 inch from the inside corner and make a pencil mark to indicate the placement of the cuts (figure I).

    With the locations marked, use a biscuit jointer to make the offset cuts (figure J).

    The top frame-stock has a thinner inside-section because of the rabbet that was cut earlier to hold the marble tile. To compensate for the rabbet on the top frame, adjust the fence on the biscuit cutter to make the cut lower on the frame stock (figure K).

    With the biscuit slots all cut, add glue to the slots and biscuits (figure L) to begin assembling the frames.

    Pull the joints together with a band-clamp (figure M) to hold them secure as the glue dries.

    Once the frames have dried, smooth the joints and remove any excess glue using a hand scraper (figure N).

    The frames are finished off with a design accent -- matching beveled edges made using the table saw. Set the blade on the table saw at 45 degrees (figure O), then set the fence accordingly and cut matching bevels on the underside of each frame (figure P). Use a high-quality sharp blade to make clean cuts on the dense wengae stock.

    The beveled angles on the top elements will create visual interest to the pedestal, drawing the eye in and accenting the taper of the base.

    In the segment that follows, the pedestal is assembled and a wood finish is applied.

    Sponsored Resource
    > Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!


    RESOURCES :

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
    Author: Mark Duginske
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 0942391985

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    Popular Woodworking
    F & W Publications, Inc.
    Website: www.popularwoodworking.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:


  • Gutter Repair
  • Landscaping Basics
  • Flooring
  • UV Air Sanitizer
  • Replacement Windows
  • Planter, Self-Watering
  • Hand-Painted Glasses
  • Choose Washer/Dryer
  • Backsplash Installation
  • Hand-Painted Bowls
  • Prepare for Vacation
  • Maintain Garage Door
  • Disinfect Bathroom
  • Romance Kit
  • Curb Appeal
  • Transport Equipment
  • Installing Undermount
  • Holiday Decorating
  • Family Scrapbook
  • Ice Candle
  • Selecting Doors
  • Spark Plug, Changing
  • Maintain Cabinets
  • Front Door Facelift
  • Change Windowpane