| Pyramid Art Pedestal -- Constructing the Base |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-210 |
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In this project, host David Marks shows how to make a contemporary display pedestal that's perfect for highlighting a solitary piece of art. The tapered sides of the base are angled toward the top, and are veneered with Australian lacewood. The base is capped with a platform made from contrasting African wengae. The platform is constructed from three stacked frames that oppose the angle of the tapered base. The display surface is a cut from green marble tile. The pyramid art pedestal is deceptively simple in design, but provides opportunities to learn about matching-angle cuts, tapering jigs and veneering. Constructing the Plywood Base The finished base is 16 inches square at the bottom, and tapers to a top that is 8 inches square. The side pieces are not only tapered, but are cut so that they lean in toward each other at an angle -- forming the pyramid effect. Materials: 1/2-inch apple-plywood stock for base
Australian lacewood stock for veneer
Table-saw with cross-cut sled
Bevel gauge
Tapering jigs
Finish-nail gun
Chalk; carpenter's pencil
Saftety glasses or goggles Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Web site -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc. Steps: - This project begins with a full-scale drawing (figure A) to help map out the dimensions and angles beforehand, and to use as a reference during the building process.
- Using a bevel gauge, it is determined that the angle for the sides of the structure is 7-1/2 degrees (figure B).
- For the side pieces, begin by making the angled cuts on the top and bottom edges. These cuts are made before the pieces are tapered since, because the stock is square, and the edges can be used as a reference. With the table-saw blade set to 7-1/2 degrees, use the cross-cut sled to make the angled cut on the bottom edge (figure C).
- Slide the stock piece so that it rests against the fence, and make a second angle-cut to cut the piece to length at 30 inches long.
- Make these bottom and top angle-cuts (figure D) on all four sides of the base.
- To form the square box of the base, two wider outside pieces will be joined with two narrower inside pieces (figure E). This must be kept in mind when setting up to make the taper cuts.
- To make the taper cuts, two different tapering jigs (figure F) will be used. The jigs are made from MDF and scraps of hardwood.
- In keeping with the design drawing, the stand will incorporate an 8-inch taper over a 30-inch height. The first cut will remove half of the stock being cut away -- i.e., 4 inches of the 8-inch taper. The jig used to make the first cut tapers from 4 inches down to zero.
- Set the table-saw blade at 90 degrees, and move the fence 15-7/8 inches from the blade. This is the width of the pedestal base, minus the width of the veneer. Set the jig in place against the fence, and set the stock in place against the jig (figure G).
- With the jig in place, make the first cut on the first of the four side pieces using the table saw (figure H).
- To finish the taper on the first piece, the second tapering jig is used. The second jig tapers from 8 inches down to zero. (This is the same theory as using a shim as a spacer when making a tapered leg. The stock must be bumped over to compensate for what was cut away on the first cut.) Flip the stock over so that the taper that was just cut is aligned against the tapering jig, then make the second cut on the table saw (figure I).
- Cut both of the wider, outside stock pieces with the fence set at 15-7/8 inches. Then, reset the fence to 14-7/8 inches to repeat the process, cutting the tapers for each of the two narrower, inside pieces.
- With all four sides cut, work can begin on cutting the pieces for the top and bottom of the stand. In addition, a pieces is cut that will fit into the middle of the base. The middle piece serves as extra support and bracing for the stand. To match the angles already cut on the sides, set the table-saw blade to 7-1/2 degrees (figure J).
- First, cut the plywood for the square base. Then, cut the square for the plywood top. Finally, cut the plywood middle-piece (figure K).
- Before gluing up the base, it's a good idea to double-check the fit of all the pieces. Start the assembly by putting two sides together, with a narrower inside piece (figure L) butting up against a wider outside piece.
- Apply glue to both surfaces, and use some masking tape to hold the pieces together temporarily. Then use a finish-nail gun to secure the sides. Using the nail gun, drive 1-inch nails along the edge (figure M), spacing them about 2 inches apart.
- With the first two sides nailed together, attach the top and bottom by applying yellow glue to the edges, then driving finishing nails to secure them (figure N).
- Next, add the third side (figure O) using the same technique. Add a little glue, the secure the piece with the nail gun.
- With three of the four sides attached, add the center support inside the structure. Slide it up from the bottom until its angled edges sit flush with the sides (figure P).
- Finally, add the fourth side (figure Q) and attach it as the others, using glue and finish nails.
- Tip: Before attaching the fourth side, make small pencil lines on the outsides of the case indicating where the center support is located. In this way, you can transfer the lines all the way around the case, and ensure that you'll be able to sink securing nails through the sides and into the center support.
In the segment that follows, the base form is covered in Australian lacewood veneer.
Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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