| Freestanding Mirror -- Building the Frame |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-109 |
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With the mirror's base and frame pieces glued securely, assembly of the piece is well under way. Now the frame's curved profile can be cut and decorative features added. Following that, a rabbet will be cut into the back of the frame to accept the mirror glass and back panel.
Materials: Cherry frame-stock
1/4" cherry plywood
Brass locking pins
Router template made from 1/2" MDF
Jigsaw
Band saw
Table saw
Handheld router; flush bearing-bit; V-bit
Table router; slot-cutting bit
Hand drill; doweling jig
Chisel
Clamps
Yellow woodworker's glue
Doublestick tape
Chalk or carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his website -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Steps: - With the glue in the mirror frame dried, the excess glue scraped away and the curved profile of the frame scribed on the frame stock, a jigsaw can be used to cut the curves in the cherry frame (figure A).
- Once the curves have been cut into the stock, the rough cuts made by the jigsaw can be cleaned up with a handheld router. A router template cut out of 1/2" MDF (figure B) is used to make this process go more smoothly. The router template is attached to the glued frame with doublestick tape, then clamped securely into position.
- With the template in position, a handheld router with a flush bearing-bit is used to smooth the inner curves on the frame (figure C).
- The router is then used to clean up the outer curves of the frame (figure D).
- The inside corners of the frame will need some extra work. A patternmaker's rasp is used to round the inside corners (figure E) where the router-bit couldn't reach.
- A rabbet is cut in the back of the frame using a slot-cutting bit on the table router. The bit has a bearing at the top, so by simply following the inside curve of the frame, a 1/2" by 1/8", a rabbet can be cut around the back side of the frame (figure F).
Tip: If "chip-out" becomes a problem while cutting the rabbet, try the technique of climb milling -- moving the stock in the direction of the cutter rather than against it.
- Since the router bit leaves rounded corners, a sharp chisel is used to square up the corners of the rabbet (figure G). This will allow for a good fit for the mirror glass that will be installed later.
- To add visual interest, a small decorative bead is routed along the inside curve of the mirror frame (figure H). The bead is cut using a handheld router, a V-bit and a short length of wooden dowel glued onto the base plate of the router. The dowel acts as a bearing, rubbing against the inside of the frame to keep the distance of the bead uniform from the edge inside curve (figure I). The resulting groove provides a nice shadow-line framing the mirror.
- On each corner, the router cut is stopped so that the bit doesn't cut the line too close to the corner of the frame.
- Next, a 1/8" radius bit is used with the router to round the inside edge of the frame (figure J).
- Once the inside of the frame has been rounded smooth, a v-shaped gouge and riffler file is used to extend the shadow lines and extend them around the corners (figure K).
Plywood Back Panel and Assembly To hold the mirror glass in place, a plywood back panel must be cut to fit precisely into the rabbet in the back of the frame. A piece of 1/4" cherry plywood is used to make the back panel. Steps: - The plywood stock is cut to size so that it will overhang the inside edge of the rabbet by about 1/2". The plywood piece is first ripped to width, then cut with a jigsaw to match the curves at the top and bottom of the frame.
- The plywood panel is laid into position on top of the frame (figure L).
- A compass -- set at 1/2" narrower than the interior curve of the frame -- is used to scribe a matching curved line on the plywood (figure M). A curve is marked for both the top and bottom of the plywood.
- With the marks made on the plywood, the curves are cut in the panel using the band saw (figure N).
- With the leg assemblies glued up, the tops of the center posts on the legs are cut to length on the table saw. The mirror was designed so that the top of the mirror will stand 6' off the ground. A hole will be drilled midway on the leg assemblies so that the mirror can pivot back and forth. Taking those measurements into account, the center posts are cut on the table saw at 46-1/2" (figure O).
- The leg assemblies are then taken to the drill press, where holes are drilled to accept the brass locking pins (figure P).
- Next, complementary holes are drilled in the mirror frame using a hand drill, 3/8" bit and doweling jig (figure Q).
- Finally, threaded brass inserts (that match the brass locking pins) are installed into the frame (figure R).
In the final phase of the project, David Marks creates the ebony handles for the locking pins, applies a wood finish and installs the back panel. Sponsored Resource
> Click here to order your tools and materials for this project from Woodcraft!
RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Beds and Bedroom Furniture: The Best of Fine Woodworking
Model: 1561581917
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking
(1997)
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Advanced Woodworking
Model: 0783539126
Author: Editors of Time Life Books
1998
Time-Life Books Inc.
Website: www.timelife.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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