OverviewJimmy DiResta creates new storage space for prized possessions when he constructs a pine wood trunk styled like a treasure chest. Raw materials include pine planks, metal hinges and latches, black handles and two kinds of polyurethane (one with stain and one without).
Below is a summary of the basic steps as seen in this Hammered project, as well as a list of materials and tools used.
Materials and tools:
(20) 8' x 8" x 3/4" pine planks
(2) 6"-high (when unfolded) black, metal hinges
(2) 3" to 4" black, metal latches
(2) 6"-long black handles
1 gallon of polyurethane (no stain) / brushes
1 pint of polyurethane (darker stain and protection)
paint brushes
band saw
table saw
nail gun / nails
drill / screws
wood glue
sandpaper
hand planers
measuring tape
router
DimensionsOverall: 17" high x 33" long x 18" wide
Elements:
(A) Bottom frame: 3-1/4" high with 1/2" lip at bottom (1/4" thick)
(C) Top frame (made of up two pieces):
- Top piece: 1-3/4" high with 1/4" lip at bottom
- Bottom piece: 2-1/4" high with 1.125" lip
Walls (slats) for sides:
- (B) Long sides: (6) 5-1/2" wide, 13" high, per side
- (B) Short sides: (3)-6" wide, 13" high, per side
- (D) Bottom: (6) 5-1/2" wide, 18" long
- (F) Top arch: (11) 1-3/4" strips
Decorative strips (stained darker for contrast):
- (E) Top arch: (4) 1-1/4" wide, arched strips placed at the two ends and 1' in from both sides. The edge strips contain 2 sides: a curve on the side, and a curve going across the top. The middle strips are by themselves. The strips that are on the very top should be split from one plank, length-wise, into 4 pieces, to achieve flexibility. Glue up and clamp them to achieve the curve. To simulate the strip continuing down the sides, cut a small block to be glued/nailed right against the top strips, but on the sides. Also, cut and attach one 1 1/4" down from there to simulate its length under the horizontal strips. A 1 1/4" strip should be mounted around the perimeter of the top for support. The two short sides should have (2) stacked 1 1/4" strips to fill in the sides.
- Long sides: (2) 1-1/4"-wide strips placed 5" up from the bottom, then 8 to 9" from the bottom, for both sides
- Short sides: Same as long sides, set to meet at corners
Steps:
- With a table saw and band saw, cut the wood for the bottom (A), with 45-degree corners for clean, mitered edges. Split what is cut in half to create 1/4"-thick pieces, at the band saw. Router the inside lip (dado) to accept 1/4" walls. Nail this frame together.
- Cut the walls for the sides (B), and split them in half using a band saw to create 1/4"-thick slats. Assemble the frame and walls, using glue and nails.
- Cut the frame for the top (C), and nail/glue it together. Dado the bottom of this frame to accept the 1/4"-thick slats, and glue/nail it into place.
- Cut the bottom slats (D) and glue/clamp/nail them into place.
- Cut the top arch strips and blocks (E) with a band saw. Dado the top to accept the strips. Attach the perimeter strips to the top of the trunk with glue and nails.
- Cut the top arch strips (F) with a band saw and hand plane/sand them to fit under the strips from step #5. Glue and nail them into place once you know they fit properly.
- Sand the wood as necessary, At the ends of the decorative strips, it's nice to add small screws in pairs for a rustic feel. With polyurethane, paint the surfaces. Use a darker shade (one-step polyurethane/stain) for the decorative strips.
- Attach the hinges over the decorative strips with screws (bend them to match the curve), screw in the handles on the short sides (on the top decorative strips) and the latches at the front, opposite the hinges, under the decorative strips.