DIY Network

Egyptian Dresser, Part 7: Cove Molding From "Wood Works" episode WWK-709

The dresser is crowned with cove molding and features custom-made ebony drawer-pulls.

NOTE: Images on this page may be enlarged for enhanced viewing simply by clicking on them.

In this special two-episode installment of Wood Works, David Marks builds an Egyptian-inspired dresser of mahogany. In this segment, work gets underway on creating the decorative cove-molding using the table saw.

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Cove Molding


As seen on the prototype, the cove molding is a crown that supports the actual top. It is made from four pieces of solid mahogany -- with a cove (figure A) cut only on three sides. The fourth side (i.e., the back side) remains straight (figure B) for easy positioning against a wall.

Figure A

Figure B

A prototype of the top-corner illustrates how the cove molding is constructed and joined. The sides are miter-cut and joined with one wood biscuit in each corner (figure C). In the bottom of each side, a 1/2" rabbet is cut to attach a strip of plywood (figure D) which will ultimately be used to join the cove molding to the case.

Figure C

Figure D

• For the cove-cut pieces, using mahogany stock that has been milled to 1-1/2" thick x 5-1/2" wide, cut two short boards oversized for the sides at 24" long. From the same stock, cut one long board oversized at 42" (figure E). (The final long-board for the back, which will be straight, will be cut later.)

• To cut the rabbet on the bottom of each of the three pieces, set the table-saw blade to a tilt 30 degrees to make the first cut (figure F).

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

  
  
  

• Raise the blade and adjust the fence to make the second cut and reveal the rabbet (figure G).

• Then raise the blade once more to rip off the top shoulder (figure H).

  Note: Though this series of cuts may seem confusing at this point, the fit of the elements will make sense once the cove has been cut.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

  
  

• David made a custom jig to determine the angle of the fence that will hold the stock in place as the cove is cut. The jig is basically four strips of wood that pivot on wing-nuts. A scale diagram was drawn out on paper to determine the depth of the cove. The blade on the table saw was set to that height. The width of the cove was measured, and the jig was set to that width (figure I).

• With the jig set using those dimensions, it could be positioned over the blade until the width of the blade matches the width of the jig (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  
  

• Along the same parallel created by the jig, align a straight board and clamp it to the table for use as a fence (figure K).

• With the table-saw blade raised no more than 1/8", begin cutting the cove in small increments to a final cove-depth of 9/16" (figure L).

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

  Figure M

  
  
  

• Then, with the blade raised and tilted to 30 degrees, create the angle for the top (figure M) -- which will run parallel to the 30-degree angle cut on the bottom of the cove molding.
  

  
  

• To join the cove molding together, cut a rabbet into the ends -- for the straight back-piece to set into -- using a Japanese hand-saw (figure N). For precision, clamp the sides to the workbench to accurately cut the rabbet.

• Next, glue on 1/2" plywood strips to the bottom rabbets (figure O). Use yellow glue, and secure the strips with screws.

  Figure N

  Figure O

  
  

  
  

• Because of the size of the molding, and the limited blade capacity on most table-saws and chop-saw, each of the miter cuts was made in two passes beginning with the chop saw (figure P), then completing the cuts at the table saw (figure Q).

  Figure P

  Figure Q

  
  

  	Figure R
  	Figure S

  
  

• With the stock clamped to the workbench for stability, cut matching #20 biscuit slots in the ends of each mitered corner using a biscuit cutter (figure R).

• With the three cove-cut sides dry-fit (figure S), the precise length can be determined for the fourth side. Cut it from 3/8" mahogany stock. (It doesn't need to be as thick as the stock used for the other sides since it will not have a cove.

• When gluing up the pieces of the coved molding, use custom-cut blocks, hot-glued to the corners, to give the clamps an even surface to grip onto. Additional blocks added to the inside of the corners will provide some additional support help to keep the structure flat and square.

• David opted for a slow-setting urea resin-glue for gluing up the miters. This type of glue allows time for adjusting the fit of the pieces during glue-up and provides additional bonding strength.
  

  
  

Mahogany stock
Maple stock
Oak stock
Ebony stock
Maple plywood stock
MDF for templates and mockup
Table saw; cross-cut sled
Tapering jig
Multi-router
Jointer
Power planer
Lathe
Table router
Plunge router
Dovetail jig
Biscuit jointer
Drill press
Chop saw
Clamps
Yellow woodworker's glue
Slow-setting resin glue
Japanese hand-saw
Dead-blow hammer
Brass pins
Hand scraper
#80 cabinet-scraper
Sandpaper, various grits
Straight-edge
Tape measure
Straight-edge
Carpenter's pencil
Safety glasses or goggles

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

In the segment that follows, the Egyptian dresser's top is assembled.

RESOURCES :

The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

Woodworker's Guide to Wood: Softwoods, Hardwoods, Plywoods, Composite, Veneers
Model: 080836878
Author: Rick Peters
(2000)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com

Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com