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  • Egyptian Dresser, Part 2: Side Frames and Panels
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-708


    PHOTO

    The Egyptian-inspired mahogany dresser.
    PHOTO
    PHOTO
    In this two-episode installment of Wood Works, David Marks builds an Egyptian-inspired dresser with slanted angles and cove-molded top. This first episode is devoted to building the dresser case, making the side panels and attaching the base of the dresser.

    In this second segment, the focus is on the construction of the side panels.

    Tools and materials used in this episode:

    Mahogany stock
    Maple stock
    Oak stock
    Ebony stock
    Maple plywood stock
    MDF for templates and mockup
    Table saw; cross-cut sled
    Tapering jig
    Multi-router
    Jointer
    Power planer
    Table router
    Biscuit jointer
    Drill press
    Clamps
    Yellow woodworker's glue
    Slow-setting resin glue
    Hand scraper
    Sandpaper, various grits
    Straight-edge
    Carpenter's pencil
    Safety glasses or goggles

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B

    Side Panels

    The mahogany stock for the frame-and-panel sides is cut to the following dimensions:

    • Top rail: 15-1/4" L x 1-5/16"W x 7/8" Thick
    • Bottom rail: 15-1/4" L x 3-1/16"W x 7/8" Thick
    • Stiles: 26-1/2"L x 2-1/4" W x 7/8" Thick (figure A)

    As seen on the prototype, there are two identical panels -- one for each side. Since the panels are identical, this demonstration shows the steps just for making one side panel. This component of the dresser is a simple frame-and-panel construction (figure B). When glued to the case, the panel follows the angle of the frame.



    • To join the stock for the side frames, cut mortises using the multi-router (figure C). The mortises in the top-side rails and stiles measure: 5/16"W x 3/4"L x 3/4" D. The mortises in bottom side-rails and stiles (figure D) measure 5/16"W x 2-1/2"L x 3/4" D.
      Photo

      Figure C

      Photo

      Figure D



    • Secure the panel in the panel with cauls and clamps while the glue dries (figure K).

    • Use plenty of clamps to ensure a good bond all the way around the frame. The cauls will hold the panel in the frame while preventing the clamps from marring the surface.

    • Allow the panels to dry for at least three hours.
      Photo

      Figure E

      Photo

      Figure F



    • To join the basic frame together, apply yellow glue to all the mortises and tenon stock (figure E).

    • Assemble and clamp the frame (figure F), check it for square and let it cure.
      Photo

      Figure G

      Photo

      Figure H



    • Once the glue has dried, use a 1/2" rabbeting bit at the router table to cut a rabbet on the inside of the frame (figures G and H). This rabbet will be 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep, and will hold the plywood side panel in place. For safety, cut the rabbet in several passes by gradually raising the bit. Use push-blocks to keep your hands away from the cutting surfaces.

    • Use a sharp chisel to square the corners of the rabbet.
      Photo

      Figure I

      Photo

      Figure J


      PHOTO

      Figure K

    • Take exact inside-measurements of the frame (figure I).

    • Using those measurements, at the table saw, cut some 1/2" mahogany plywood to snugly fit the rabbet.

    • Apply yellow woodworker's glue to the inside of the rabbet and install the panel (figure J).


    • The next step is to cut the matching angles so that they will line up with the case. Set the table saw blade to 7 degrees (figure L).

    • Angle-cut the top and bottom of the frames at the table saw using the cross-cut sled (figure M). The 7-degree angle cut on the top and bottom of the side-assemblies matches the tapered angle cut earlier in the frames.
      Photo

      Figure L

      Photo

      Figure M



    • With the angles cut, the side assemblies can be glued to the case. Apply yellow glue to the edges of the tapered stiles of the frame and the edges of the side-assemblies, and set the side-pieces in place (figure N). Since this is a long-grain to long-grain glue-up, the glue bond will be strong enough to hold the components securely.

    • The clamping strategy for this assembly is very important. It's important to have even clamping pressure along the whole glued surface. In order to accommodate the angle, use tapered cauls as shown (figure O).
      Photo

      Figure N

      Photo

      Figure O



    In the segment that follows, work continues on the Egyptian dresser with the back panel, runners and base construction.


    RESOURCES :

    The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
    Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561580619


    Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
    Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
    Publisher: Taunton Press
    ISBN: 1561583456

    David Marks Website
    David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

    Fine Woodworking
    A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:


  • Gutter Repair
  • Landscaping Basics
  • Flooring
  • UV Air Sanitizer
  • Replacement Windows
  • Planter, Self-Watering
  • Hand-Painted Glasses
  • Choose Washer/Dryer
  • Backsplash Installation
  • Hand-Painted Bowls
  • Prepare for Vacation
  • Maintain Garage Door
  • Disinfect Bathroom
  • Romance Kit
  • Curb Appeal
  • Transport Equipment
  • Installing Undermount
  • Holiday Decorating
  • Family Scrapbook
  • Ice Candle
  • Selecting Doors
  • Spark Plug, Changing
  • Maintain Cabinets
  • Front Door Facelift
  • Change Windowpane