| Mission-Style Ottoman -- Spindles and Final Assembly |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-106 |
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With the joinery for the legs and stretchers complete, work can begin on making the wood side spindles.
Materials: Milled, quarter-sawn white oak stock
Table saw with stop-block
Hollow-chisel mortiser; chisel bit
Tenoning jig
Jigsaw
Yellow wood glue
Bar clamps
Saftety glasses or goggles
Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Website -- information below under Resources. Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses when working with wood, saws, drills, routers, etc.
Steps: - The legs and stretchers for one side of the ottoman are dry-fitted and used to get exact measurements for the spindles (figure A). In our demonstration, the exact measurement between the stretchers was 8-7/8". To provide enough length to allow for tenons on the spindles, 1/2" was added to each end of this measurement, yielding a final length of 9-7/8" for the spindle stock.
- The measurement above is used to set the stop-block on the table saw for batch cutting the spindle stock. That setting is used to cut each of the spindles to length on the table saw (figure B).
- The mortises cut in the stretchers to accept the spindles are stop-mortises . These are cut using a tool known as a hollow-chisel mortiser. It uses a specialized bit consisting of a drill bit housed inside a four-sided chisel. For the spindle mortises, a 1/4" mortising bit is used.
- A notched stop-block is used on the mortiser so that the shoulder of the stretcher can reference up against the stop-block (figure C). Batch cutting -- and using the notched stop-block as a uniform reference -- ensures that the positioning of the mortises is identical on all four stretchers.
- The stop-block is adjusted to cut the first of five mortises for the spindles. Using the same setting, the first mortise is cut on each of the four stretchers ( figure D). Then the stop-block is adjusted to cut the second mortise on all four stretchers. The process is repeated until all of the mortises have been cut. This technique should ensure that all of the spindles will line up perfectly when installed.
- A stop-block clamped to the the table saw is used to begin scoring the ends of the spindles to create the integral tenons. As before, batching is used to make the process faster and more efficient.
- Once all of the spindles have been scored, the tenons can be finalized by cutting them on the table saw using a tenoning jig. By flipping and turning the spindles in the jig, the tenons can be cut accurately and easily. Because the spindles are all identical, and small enough to be manageable in the jig, batching can be taken one step further in this instance: the spindles are clamped in side by side and cut two at a time (figure E). This results in the tenon cheeks being cut in half the time.
- With the joinery complete, the elements are laid out, and gluing up the sides of the ottoman can begin. Using yellow glue, the spindles and stretchers are assembled first (figure F).
- Once assembled, the sides are clamped to hold the elements secure as the glue dries (figure G).
- Next, the stretchers are glued into the legs (figure H).
- Once assembled, the side piece is checked to be sure that it's perfectly square (figure I).
- Tip: One of the nice features of mortise-and-tenon joinery is that as long as the stock is cut and milled accurately, the joints are fairly self-squaring.
- Excess glue is cleaned from the wood surface and between the spindles, using a toothbrush and a spray bottle filled with water (figure J).
- While the glue on the side pieces is drying, rails are glued between the top two stretchers to hold a seat cushion.
- Once the glue has dried on the sides, final assembly and gluing can begin (figure K).
- The assembled ottoman is clamped to hold it securely together as the glue dries (figure L).
- Next, a frame to support the seat cushion is cut from plywood. The corners of the frame are notched to fit around the insides of the legs (figure M).
- The open-center section is cut out of the plywood frame on the table saw. To make the interior cuts on the frame come out straight, a technique is used on the table saw known as drop-cutting. With large stop-blocks clamped into place to provide the proper positioning of the cuts, the plywood frame is simply dropped down onto the spinning saw blade (figure N) and slid forward to make the initial cuts.
- The corners of the center section are cut out using a jigsaw, and the center section is removed (figure O).
- The finished frame can be taken to an upholsterer so that it may be covered in an appropriate material.
Sponsored Resource
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RESOURCES :
Fine Woodworking
A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
The Complete Woodworker's Companion
Author: Roger Holmes
Publisher: Watson-Guptill
ISBN: 0823008665
The Complete Book of Wood Joinery
Author: Robert J. Decristoforo
Publisher: Sterling Publishing Co.
ISBN: 0806999500
Advanced Woodworking
Model: 0783539126
Author: Editors of Time Life Books
1998
Time-Life Books Inc.
Website: www.timelife.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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