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Painting and Assembly

The Eco-Headboard is put together and completed.

From "Freeform Furniture"
episode DFFF-108

In this last segment host Amy Devers preps the metal for painting and then paints all the parts. She then screws the back panel onto the quilted panel with a screw gun and attaches the u-channel frame. The legs are installed to complete the Eco-Headboard.

Host Amy Devers finishes the Eco-Headboard in this final segment.

Materials:

Clear vinyl
3/4" pre-finished maple plywood
1/2" unfinished plywood
T-nuts
2" foam
Bonded batting
Muslin
Staples
Steel U-channel
Recycled T-shirts
1-1/2" stainless steel tube
1/8" round-over bit
Forstner bit
Wax pencil
Ruler
Heavy-duty thread
Spray adhesive
Clean rags
Spray paint
Tape measure
Welding gloves
Ear protection
Safety glasses
Face shield
Cutting fluid
Welding jacket
Welding mask
Filler rod

Tools:

Staple gun
Laminate trimmer
Clamps
Awl
Drill
Drill press
Hammer
Shears
Razor knife
Sewing machine
Respirator
Chop saw
Ratchet
TIG welder

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

Figure D

Painting and Assembly

Satin spray enamel is used on the headboard and it comes in a wide variety of colors. Before painting the metal, the surface has to be prepped to receive the paint.
Wipe the surface down with a lacquer thinner to remove any oil residue or metal dust.
Note: Whenever you are using a heavy solvent like lacquer thinner, always work in a well-ventilated area. Lacquer thinner dries fast and won't react to the paint.
Make sure you go over the metal parts thoroughly with the lacquer thinner. The paint won't stick to any dirt or oils left behind, so swap out the rags with clean ones as the rag gets dirty.
Start painting the screws first. Make several passes to get a nice even coat.
With the pieces laid out, apply the first coat of paint. Go lightly on this coat because you don't want any drips (figure A). If you do get any drips, just wipe the drip off with a clean cloth and reapply some paint.
The paint will take about 12 hours to dry. When all the parts are dry, check for any imperfections in the paint. If there are any imperfections, just sand down the area before the second coat of paint is applied.
Safety Tip: The lacquer soaked rags are extremely flammable. Rags that you use to apply oil or any kind of solvent can burst spontaneously into flames, so they need to be disposed of properly--a fireproof can is great (figure B). If you don't have a fireproof can, take an empty coffee can, put the rags inside, and fill it with water. Leave it outside for a day. The water will break down the solvent and the rags will no longer be flammable.
To put the headboard together, have the upholstered panel lying face down. Put a packing blanket on the table to protect the vinyl while you work on the headboard.
With the upholstered panel laid on its face, place the back panel on top of it (figure C), line up the hole and the T-nut, and screw them together.
Note: Don't drive the screws in too hard because you don't want to strip the head, but make sure that the screws are tight.
Flip the panels over and now it's time to put the frame onto the headboard panels. You need to be careful not to snag the vinyl when you slide the frame onto the headboard.
Check the front of the headboard to make sure the panels are seated properly in the frame.
Tap the panel into place using a mallet.
With the headboard laying face up on the table, press the frame onto the panels. Put some clamps on to hold the frame in place.
Be careful not to mar the paint when you tighten the clamps.
Screw the frame to the panel (figure D).
Attach the legs to the headboard by lining up the hole to the T-nut and then run the bolts through the holes and into the T-nuts and attach the leg to the headboard. Once the last screw is tightened, the headboard is finished.