| Display Cabinet -- Making and Installing the Flame-Maple Back Panel |
From "Wood Works"
episode WWK-102 |
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Materials: Flame-maple wood panel stock
Band saw
Jointer
Drum sander
Yellow wood glue
Clamps
Router table
Table saw and fence
Stop blocks
Solid cherry frame stock
2-flute carbide bit
1/8" radius bit
Tenon stock
Hand-held scraper Note: Cut sizes may vary. For exact measurements, please contact David Marks through his Website -- information, below, under Resources. Safety Alert: Always use safety goggles when working with wood, saws, drills, etc. Tip from David Marks: One of the problems with any piece of highly figured wood is that it's prone to chipping. To solve this problem, have a back bevel (figure A) placed on the knives of your jointer. What you're looking for is a net cutting angle of 10 degrees, which will reduce the problem of chipping wood. - Make the flame-maple wood flat by passing it over a jointer a few times. Remember to pass the wood gently over the jointer to get a cleaner cut.
Tip: Another way to reduce chips is to push the panel stock over the knives at an angle. - Using a band saw, resaw the panels to thickness -- approximately 1/4".
- Run the panel pieces through a drum sander (figure B) to achieve the exact thickness desired.
- Joint the inside edges of the panel, then glue the matching edges together and clamp securely. Let glue dry.
Preparing the Frames for the Back Panel Note: For this particular project you will be making 2 frames -- 1 for the panel that goes into the back of the display cabinet and 1 for the door that will hold the glass for the cabinet. Rail-and-stile construction will be used for the frames, and the joinery will be done with the mortise-and-loose-tenon style. To add some visual weight, Marks decided to make the bottom rail wider than the top one, which means the joinery ( figure C) has to be wider. - Set up the router table with stop blocks clamped in place to protect the maple wood and to control the length of the mortise cut.
- Attach the 2-flute carbide bit and cut the mortise into the bottom rail (figure D). To relieve pressure on the bit, make the cuts about 1/4" at a time.
- Repeat the process in the last step for the rails on both the door frame and the panel frame, making adjustment for the different size mortises.
- For the stiles of both frames, you'll need an auxiliary fence (figure E) to allow for the extra length. The mortises in the stiles have to match the appropriate size of the ones that were cut in the rails.
- Use a smaller 2-flute bit (3/32") to cut a dado in the panel frame (figure F). This is where the flame-maple panel will be inserted.
- Cut a rabbet in the back of the door frame (figure G) to house the glass.
- To take away the sharp edges on the inside of both frames, use a 1/8" radius bit to get a more rounded feel to the wood.
Note: When using the radius bit for the stiles, it's important to mark the position for the cut to make sure you don't run past the point where the stile meets the rail. - Cut the tenon stock and be sure to round the corners with a 1/8" radius bit to fit the mortise perfectly (figure H).
- Cut the tenon to length on the table saw.
- Glue the tenons and assemble the frame of the door, using a clamp to secure. Let the glue dry.
- While the glue is drying on the frame, use a hand-held scraper over the surface of the flame-maple panel until you can see the depth of the curl of the flame maple coming out.
- Take the flame-maple panel to the table saw and trim to size.
- Glue the panel into the frame. Be sure to glue only the mortises and on the tenons (never in the dado) so the panel has room to expand and contract (figure I).
- Clamp the frame and panel and let the glue dry for at least a couple of hours.
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RESOURCES :
The Complete Manual of Woodworking
Author: Albert Jackson
Publisher: Knopf
ISBN: 0679766111
Arts and Crafts Woodworking Projects: 11 New Designs in the Stickley Tradition
Model: 0811726622
Author: Robert E. Belke
176 Woodworking Projects: A Workbench Treasury
Model: 0806965282
Author: Workbench Magazine
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456
Mastering Woodworking Machines (Fine Woodworking Book)
Author: Mark Duginske
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 0942391985
The Complete Illustrated Guide to Furniture and Cabinet Construction
Model: 1561584029
Author: Andy Rae
(2001)
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Cabinets and Bookcases (Art of Woodworking)
Model: 0809499452
Author: Niall Barrett
David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com
Handcrafted Cabinetry: Professional Designs: Practical Techniques
Model: 0762101733
Author: Rob Yoder
(1999)
Readers Digest
Pleasantville, NY 10570-0235
Making Wood Handles, Hinges and Knobs: The Perfect Touch for Cabinetry
Model: 0806913355
Author: Alan Bridgewater and Gill Bridgewater
(1998)
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
The Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking
Author: Lonnie Bird, Andy Rae and Gary Rogowski
Publisher: Taunton
ISBN: 1561586021
Furniture Making Techniques: The Best From Furniture and Cabinetmaking Magazine
Model: 1861081251
Author: David Charlesworth
(1999)
Guild of Master Craftsman Publications
Lowes, West SussexBN7 1XU
UK
Phone: 0-12734-78449
Fax: 0-12734-78606
Rodale's Illustrated Cabinetmaking: How to Design and Construct Furniture That Works
Model: 0762101830
Author: Bill Hylton
(1999)
Rodale Press Inc. (Organic Gardening Magazine)
Emmaus, PA 18098
Phone: 610-967-5171
Fax: 800-813-6627
Email: customer_service@rodalepress.com
Popular Woodworking
F & W Publications, Inc.
Website: www.popularwoodworking.com
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