| Using Aerosols |
From "Ask DIY"
episode ADI-211 |
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Q: I've always preferred brushing on my stains and finishes. But I've noticed a lot of aerosol products on the shelves. Are they any better than what I've been brushing on? A: (Bruce Johnson, Ask DIY Woodworking expert) The real question is "When do I use an aerosol and when do I use a brush?" because what's inside the two types of can is the same. And that question can be answered by considering the size of your project. The aerosol products cost more per ounce, but you also have to figure in the cost of a brush. So if you're painting the walls in your house, you're not going to reach for an aerosol can. It just isn't cost effective. But if you're doing a small project or a touch-up, an aerosol may be the answer. Here are some tips on using aerosol products properly, particularly some unusual products you may not be aware of: - When stripping furniture, you probably use canned products. Typically, you'd wear safety glasses and gloves and pour some paint and varnish remover into an old pan. Then you brush some of the heavy glop onto the piece of furniture. You'll have to really work to get it into the crevices and to get a nice, even layer. Or you could just use an aerosol paint remover, which can reach the crevices more easily. (Still wear the safety gear!) Another tactic to try: Use a layer of the traditional paint remover first. As it dries, spray on a coat of the aerosol variety (figure A), which will act on the paint itself and also reactivate the brush-on paint remover below it.
- You can also use an aerosol product to stain unfinished wood, in place of the brush-on stuff, which is harder to work into corners and crevices. You can spray stain quickly and easily. Keep the aerosol can moving for an even finish (figure B). Whether you brush or spray, come back with a lint-free rag and wipe off the excess stain.
- Polyurethane is now available in an aerosol can, as are many paints and varnishes. Make sure you shake the can for 60 seconds to really mix up the product so you get a full-strength coat of finish.
- Before you spray unfinished furniture, practice on a piece of scrap wood.
- When you spray-paint, start spraying before you reach the wood surface and continue spraying for a few inches beyond the surface. Then come back for another swipe. That way, the paint won't puddle. If the paint does puddle, use a paintbrush to smooth it out before the drip dries.
- When you're done with an aerosol spray product, turn the can upside down and hold down the spray button until all of the product is out of the tip. That way, the tip won't be clogged up the next time you want to use the aerosol can.
More Questions for Bruce:
Q: Which is better for my furniture, paste wax or lemon oil?
A: They're both good for furniture if you use them at the right time. Put paste wax on your furniture no more than once a year, and only on surfaces where you might set a glass. Use lemon oil on dust rags. It will pick the dust up so you don't drag dry dust across the wood.
Q: I just bought an older home and I want to repaint it, but I think the old paint is lead-based. How should I proceed?
A: Very carefully! Lead-based paint is very dangerous to work with, and you especially don't want to sand it. So get it tested to see if it's lead-based before you proceed.
Q: Can I strip stain from wood?
A: When you strip wood, you're actually stripping off the finish. The stain is deep inside the pores of the wood. Every now and then stripper will lighten the stain, but you shouldn't count on it to take the stain out of the wood. Web site resource for Woodworking: Using Aerosols: The Plain Man's Guide to Aerosols from Yorks.Karoo.net Book: Handbook Of Practical Woodworking
By Robert Lento
ISBN: 0806913517
Sterling Publishing Inc. (1999)
387 Park Avenue South
New York, NY 10016
Phone: 212-532-7160
Fax: 212-513-2495
Customer Service Phone: 800-367-9692
Customer Service Fax: 800-542-7567
E-mail: webmaster@sterlingpub.com
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