DIY Network

Woodturned Vessel: Finalizing the Interior and Rim From "Wood Works" episode WWK-611

Beginner Tip: If you're new to hollow wood-turning, you may want to start with a project using "green" wood -- i.e., freshly cut wood that has been dried only for a few months. The moisture content in green wood makes it easier to turn because there's less resistance on the tools.

In this episode of Wood Works, David Marks hand-turns a vessel from curly maple. In this third segment, work continues on shaping the inside, then on defining the bead and shoulder of the vessel.

Tools and Materials Featured in this Episode:

Black walnut stock
Curly maple stock
Lathe: One-Way 2436 model
Lathe accessories
(live tail center; 4-way spur chuck; 4-jaw chuck, etc.)
Band saw
Various gouges and turning tools
(straight boring bar, angled boring bar, diamond parting tool, etc.)
Air compressor and hose
Double-ended caliper
Dental light
Awl
Chalk
Sandpaper
Carpenter's pencil
Face shield
Protective woodturning coat

Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, saws, drills, routers, etc.

Safety Apparel for WoodturningFor safety, wear a face shield when to protect your eyes and face from flying chips. A turning jacket, that seals at the neck, helps keep chips from getting down your shirt. Ski gators will prevent chips from getting down your socks and into your shoes.

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Hollowing the Interior and Creating the Beaded Rim

• As seen in the cross-section of the vessel prototype, the upper bead and shoulder are slightly thicker, and the walls have a fairly uniform thickness of about 3/16 of an inch (figure A).

• The bottom was left thicker to add weight to the base (figure B).

  These are the same dimensions we hope to achieve in the final version of the vessel made from curly maple.

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  

  Figure C

  
  
  

• We begin now with the fourth phase of this turning project. With the top half already turned, work can now begin on hollowing out the lower section to the final depth (figure C).

• Again, we'll use the straight boring bar for this phase. At this point, it's a good idea to sharpen the tip at the grinding wheel to ensure a continued sharp cutting edge. Turning tools can dull quickly when you use them to work with seasoned wood.
  

  
  

• Straddling the lathe once again, position the straight boring bar horizontally on the tool rest and hollow the lower section of the vessel (figures D and E).

• You can use blue tape on the shaft of the tool to indicate the final depth of the vessel's interior.

• Use slow, sweeping movements from the center outward, and take your time. Since you are essentially blind-turning during this phase, you'll need to learn the technique of gauging your pressure by the way that the tool sounds and feels as you cut.

  Figure D

  Figure E

  
  

  Figure F

  
  

• For the fifth hase, you'll move out from the center and create the shape of the bottom interior of the vessel (figure F).

• Once again, you'll use the angled boring bar. As you get deeper into the vessel, keep adjusting your leverage. Stop, clean out the shavings and check your progress often. It's important to periodically check the thickness as you hollow.
  

  
  

• For the final phase, you'll complete the interior of the vessel, matching the wall thickness to 3/16" throughout (figure G). The last section is a particularly delicate process since you'll be cutting so close to the walls.

• Check the wall thickness frequently with the double calipers (figure H).

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

  
  

• Once the inside of the vessel is complete, you can refine the outer lip using a round-point tool (figure I). This is a safe tool since it won't catch or "bite" the wood.

• Use this tool to round over the upper lip and refine the shoulders of the bead (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  
  

• Using 60-grit sandpaper taped to the end of your finger, smooth the inside of the vessel as far as you can reach (figure K).

  Safety Alert: Use caution and a light touch -- and a slower turning speed -- when using this sanding technique.

• For sanding the outside of the vessel (figure L), start with some 120-grit sandpaper, then move up to 220 and, finally, 320-grit to provide a very smooth exterior.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

  
  

RESOURCES :

The Small Wood Shop (The Best of Fine Woodworking)
Author: Helen Albert (Editor)
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561580619

Woodworking Techniques: Best Methods for Building Furniture from Fine Woodworking
Author: Editors of Fine Woodworking magazine
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561583456

David Marks Website
David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com