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  • Introduction to Wood Turning: Tools and Rules
  • From "Wood Works"
    episode WWK-605


    PHOTO

    Shaping a bowl from claro walnut using the Oliver lathe. Turning allows you to shape wood in creative ways that are impossible with basic hand-tools.
    PHOTO

    Host David Marks with a variety of hand-turned wooden bowls and vessels.
    In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks introduces the viewers to one of his specialties: woodturning. He introducses the Oliver lathe (the most basic of the three lathes he owns), the various turning tools, bowl gouges, scrapers and -- most importantly -- basic wood turning safety. As a demonstration of the woodturning process, David makes a turned bowl crafted from a solid piece of claro walnut utilizing the faceplate turning technique.

    In this first segment, David provides an overview of the lathe, various related accessories and wood-shaping tools. He also goes over some important safety basics.

    Materials used in this episode:

    Claro walnut stock
    MDF for templates and mockup
    Oliver lathe and related accessories
    Wood-turning gouges and tools
    Band saw
    Air-powered angle grinder
    Cordless drill; screwdriver attachment
    Circle template
    Straight-edge
    Carpenter's pencil
    Cyanoacrylate glue
    Wood screws
    Protective clothing and gloves
    Face shield
    Protective clothing
    Leg gaiters

    Safety Alert: Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with wood, power-tools, lathes, saws, drills, routers, etc.

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    Introduction to Lathes

    According to David, woodturning is the closest thing to sculpting in the world of woodworking. He was first introduced to gallery-quality woodturning by Bob Stocksdale, an internationally renowned turner who crafts exquisite bowls out of exotic woods.

    The earliest objects of woodturning were found in tombs of the pharaohs in Egypt. Early hieroglyphics depict a primitive bow-driven hand drill. With the advent of the industrial revolution, cast iron and forged-steel machinery, faceplate turning on a lathe became a reality. Today, David uses several lathes for specific purposes and applications.

    The Delta Rockwell lathe has a 12-inch swing and 36-inch-long bed (figure A). This well-built vintage cast-iron model is ideal for general-purpose applications. David added about 400 pounds of bagged sand to the base to minimize vibration and added a new link-built.

    David's Oliver lathe was built in the 1940s. It has 36-inch bed and standard 12-inch swing over the bed (figure B). This particular lathe was modified with a 2-inch riser block that permits holding a piece of wood up to 16 inches in diameter. This sturdy lathe weighs about 500 pounds. The motor can be set to various speeds, with the slowest speed being about 900 rpm. This is the lathe used later in the demonstration to create a wooden bowl from solid walnut.
    Photo

    Figure A

    Photo

    Figure B



    The One-Way 2436 lathe also has a 36-inch bed, but it has a 24-inch swing (figure C). It weighs about 850 pounds and is considered the "Cadillac of lathes" because of its variable speed-control (figure D), massive bearings in the head-stock and quiet operation. It's an expensive but versatile and high-quality lathe that can turn out impressive results.
    Photo

    Figure C

    Photo

    Figure D


    There are a few basic parts that are common to all lathes. Those include:

    • Headstock (figure E);
    • Tailstock (figure F);
    • Bed;
    • and Tool rest (figure G)
      Photo

      Figure E

      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G



      There are two basic categories or techniques for working wood on a lathe. Those include:

      1. Turning between centers, or spindle-turning, where the work piece is attached at both ends of the lathe (figure H). This technique is commonly used for turning objects like chair- or table-legs, columns and stair-rail spindles.

      2. In faceplate turning the stock is attached to the driveshaft with a mechanical fastener -- or faceplate (figure I). This is the method we used to create the bowl in this episode.
        Photo

        Figure I

        Photo

        Figure H


      Prepping the Stock

      To create our bowl we used a block of solid claro walnut. The blank is 9" x 9" x 4-1/4".

      • After jointing one face flat, use a circle template to trace out the diameter of the bowl (figure J).

      • You can save time on turning by rough-cutting the bowl shape on the band saw (figure K), before mounting it on the lathe.
        Photo

        Figure J

        Photo

        Figure K


      • Once the circular blank has been cut out (figure L), place a sacrificial block of poplar onto the center of the walnut and trace out the shape.

      • Attach the sacrificial block using cyanoacrylate glue. Clamp the block securely and allow the glue to harden.

      • Attach the faceplate to the block with screws (figure M). The faceplate is essentially a flat, metal disc that will screw onto the driveshaft of the lathe.
        Photo

        Figure L

        Photo

        Figure M


        PHOTO

        Figure N
        PHOTO

        Figure O
        PHOTO

        Figure P
        PHOTO

        Figure Q
        PHOTO

        Figure R
        PHOTO

        David secures the wood blank to the lathe using the metal faceplate and a sacrificial block of poplar.

      Safety Tips

      1. Be certain that the wood is secured properly to the lathe. Thread the faceplate onto the driveshaft until it's tight (figures N and O). Then, standing out to one side of the lathe, out of the way, turn on the lathe and test it's balance.

      2. Always use a tool-rest when cutting. Place it as close as possible to the wood. The tool-rest helps to minimize the downward leverage on the tool (figure P). Never let the tool contact the wood before it is supported by the tool rest.

      3. Always use sharp tools. Dull tools are less effective and precise. Here's a tip for sharpening woodturning tools such as gouges: Mark the cutting tip with a black marker before you begin sharpening. In that way, as the tip or edge is sharpened with a grinding stone, it's easier to tell that the edges and bevel are honed as the black is ground away (figure Q). David hand-made all of the handles for his turning tools from a variety woods. The long handles allow use with ample leverage and control of the tool.

      4. Always "let the wood come to the tool.". Avoid forcing the tool into the wood. If you use a subtle touch and let the wood come to the tool (figure R), a clean surface will result.

      5. Wear sensible, protective clothes and consider safety. Avoid loose or dangling sleeves that could get caught in moving parts. Wear comfortable, strong shoes.

      In the segment that follows, work begins on shaping the outside of the bowl.


      RESOURCES :

      David Marks Website
      David Marks, DIY's Wood Works host, is a master woodworker. For more information on cut sizes and project details, please contact him via his Website at www.djmarks.com

      Fine Woodworking
      A magazine devoted to high-quality craftsmanship in woodworking.
      The Taunton Press Inc.
      Website: www.taunton.com

    • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: