The tapered portion of the candlestick (figure A) must have good proportion in relation to the height of the candlestick. You don't have to measure it exactly; Hout uses the rule of thirds, making the upper section, above the taper, approximately one-third the length of the piece, and the portion below the taper approximately two-thirds the length of the piece.
1. Using the tool, place a small mark on the turning blank, one-third down the length (figure B). Begin narrowing this section, working back and forth from both sides of the wood. This is done because of the grain direction; you want to be cutting downhill on the fibers.Example: Like paddling a boat downstream, cutting downhill is smooth and easy, because you are moving with the fibers of the wood. Cutting uphill is like paddling against the current; the tool runs into end grain and the fibers snag and chip, creating a rough surface. 2. Remember to roll the tool in the direction you are going, and as the diameter of the wood decreases bring the tool rest closer to the wood. As the wood thins and starts to flex, the sound of the tool on the wood changes to a rattling sound. Be careful at this stage; if the wood flexes too much, it will snap (figure C). 3. When turning the second candlestick, this is the point to compare it to the first candlestick, to ensure uniformity of shape (figure D).
4. Since this is a simple line of design, fine details make a difference. The top of the candlestick curves inward into the narrow section, while the base of the candlestick crowns slightly as it rises to meet the narrow portion of the wood, making a striking proportional difference when the candlesticks are standing side by side (figure E).5. Using a spindle gouge, shape the top into a concave form to catch candle wax (figure F). Line the tool bevel up with the edge of the wood; if it's rolled back, it will hit at an angle. Keep the tool straight on, and bring the point in contact by raising the handle as you shape the top.
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