| Hand Plane: Preparing the Stock |
From "Wood Works" episode WWK-606 |
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 A European hand-plane.
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 Host David Marks with a variety of hand planes.
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In this episode of DIY Wood Works, host David Marks covers the creation of a fine woodworking essential -- "the Stradivarius" of cabinetmakers and master craftsmen -- the hand plane. This simple tool, perhaps more than any other, embodies the precision and finesse of fine woodworking. In this episode, David Marks shows how to hand-craft a hand plane from purple-heart wood, then offers some tips about tuning a plane and planing technques.Materials: Purple-heart stock Hand-plane iron and chip-breaker (available from woodworking supply shops) Table saw Band saw Jointer Planer Table router Dowel and sandpaper File Vise Clamps Yellow woodworker's glue Straight-edge Carpenter's pencil Safety glasses or goggles
A hand plane can shape wood to a silken state, producing long translucent ribbons of wood shavings (figure A) with each motion.To begin this project, Marks will prepare a 9-inch piece of stock -- in this case, purple heart wood -- a hard and heavy choice that can sustain rigorous planing with ease. But first, Marks offers a closer look at the hand plane's functionality:
- At the heart of the plane is the iron (figure B) and the chip breaker (figure C) -- two pieces that combine to make the blade (figure D). The iron is the cutting blade of the plane; the chip breaker curls and severs shavings. The two pieces can be purchased together, ready to install. In this example, the iron and breaker are made from an oil-hardened, high-carbon tool steel.
The iron and chip breaker come precisely ground, but need to be sharpened before use. Use a flat water stone or diamond stone to sharpen (figure E), making sure the back of the iron (figure F) remains dead-flat.
After honing, the beveled edge of the iron should be well-defined (figure G); the breakers should be smooth and polished and fit together flush with the iron (figure H), leaving no gap at the front.
Now, it 's time to shape the wood for the plane. The purple heart wood (figure I) has already been milled to blank measuring 11" long, 2-5/8" wide and 2" thick. Two of the sides are already jointed, but Marks will need to joint the remaining two (figure J).
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 Figure K
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 Figure L
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 Figure M
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- Orient the wood of the blank so that the grain runs in the same direction (figure K) in which the plane will move. This will allow the wood fibers to lie flat during planing, preventing chip-out and producing a smooth cut.
- Using the band saw, Marks cuts cheeks 3/8" wide on each side of the blank (figure L). This will produce a center width a little wider than the 1-1/2" needed for the iron.
- Next, run cheeks through planer to smooth and remove saw marks. Run center piece through planer to smooth and accommodate iron, while leaving 1/16" play.
- Cut ramp to hold iron into the center section. The mouth exposing the blade will be located in the center of the length at the 5-1/2" measurement.
- Mark the center section of the blank at a 45-degree angle -- also called a bed angle. Mark the angle in the center of the length (figure M), keeping orientation toward the front consistent.
Opposite the 45-degree angle, measure and mark a 65-degree angle to allow room for shavings. Draw a curve using the 65-degree angle mark as a guide. This will create a small opening to that shavings can be removed with fingers from the plane.Cut the 45-degree angle using a table saw and jig to support the center stock (figure N).Use a band saw to cut the curve near the 65-degree angle (figure O). Remember to retain the scrap piece for later use.
Place the center stock in a vise, curved side up. Use a dowel wrapped in sandpaper to smooth the curve (figure P). Blunt the edge of the curve with a file to create a 1/8" flat edge (figure Q).
Route a spot on the ramp (the angled portion of the stock) to accommodate the screw on the iron (figure R). Align the iron and chip breaker, then mark position of the screw. Mark the side of the stock, then transfer measurement to the bed (figure S).
Adjust router bit to match width of screw. A 3/8" bit will create a channel large enough to allow the bit to move in the slot (figure T). When working with a dense wood such as purple heart wood, use the router at a higher speed.
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