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With the walls now framed, the trusses are ready to be secured.
- Trusses come in all shapes and sizes; choose the type(s) that best suit the type and size of your individual workshop. Here, two types are selected for this workshop: one is a gable, which is flat across the bottom and the other is a cathedral which has a two-foot offset from the gable , providing extra headroom in the workshop ( figure A).
- Because this workshop has an offset area -- as opposed to a basic rectangle -- it's necessary to install two sets of trusses running perpendicular to one another . The first set of trusses will cover the alcove area (green area in figure B) and will run from the front to the back of the building.
- Once those are in place, the innermost truss will create a ledge on which the remaining trusses can rest (figure C). Then the second set of trusses will be installed from side to side.
- We'll start at the back of the workshop and continue forward, placing a truss every two feet on center. But first, we have to prepare the top plate:
To do this, two-inch block spacers are secured along the top plate so they are flush with the inner wall (figure D). This way, the ends of the trusses will be flush with the outer wall. The spacers will also serve as nailer blocks to which the trusses can be secured.
- Reference marks -- every two feet on center -- around the edge of the top plate indicate the points where the edge of each truss will align (figure E). (An "x" is used to mark which side of the line the truss will be set on so that each truss is over an "x" and its edge aligns with the reference mark. (Contractor Darrin John, prep details)
- Starting with the alcove trusses, the first one is lifted into place upside-down . Then with a long brace, it's turned over and set into the correct position (figure F). After it's secured to the top plate, it's temporarily staked into place ( figure G).
The same process will be used for all remaining alcove trusses.
- Next, we install the first main truss and secure it to the vertical bracing along the back wall of the building (figure H). Our crew carries each truss into the workspace upside-down (figure I), lifts it into place with long brace , then turns it upright and sets it in place on top of the wall.
Note: If you set the roof trusses on your own workshop, be sure to have plenty of help on hand! It's necessary for safety.
- After each truss is set in place, and secured to the top plate by toe-nailing it firmly together. After a few trusses are in place, temporarily fasten them together with a horizontal brace (figure J), so they stay in proper orientation.
- The crew continues to set each truss on top of the wall, secure them to the top plate and add additional bracing until all trusses are in place.
- With the trusses in place, it's time to finish the roof construction. First, the crew attaches plywood sheathing to all gable ends, as shown in figure K. (Gable: The vertical section of a structure where the roof ends.) Use the same type of sheathing used earlier to cover the walls.
- Next, the crew builds ladder-design structures (figure L) to create an overhang that will extend the roof on each gable end. Make one for each section of the gable (figure M), then fasten in place on each gable end.
- To finish off the exposed ends of the trusses along the sides, attach 2x4s directly to their ends (figure N). This will create what's called a sub-fascia, which will be needed later when the fascia boards are attached.
- With the sub-fascia in place, go ahead and cover the roof with plywood sheathing (figure O). Start in one corner of the roof and use a chalk line to mark the location of the roof trusses on the surface of the plywood. This will create guidelines for fastening the sheathing to the underlying trusses when they're covered by the plywood.
- Continue adding plywood sheathing to the roof until it's completely covered. The plywood sheathing will form a good base for the felt and shingles that will be added later.
- While most of the roof is framed with trusses, one small section (figure P , light green area) will need to be "tied together" by hand or "stick-built" as framers call it.
- First, install a ridge beam (figure Q) to connect the smaller trusses to the main roof, just like the ones over the offset area. (A ridge beam is a structural element at a roof peak against which rafters are nailed.)
- Finally, the crew attaches rafters (figure R) connecting the ridge beam to the main roof. These will provide support for the plywood sheathing.
- With this area framed out, all the crew needs to do now is attach plywood sheathing in the same fashion as before and the basic roof construction will be complete.
RESOURCES :
The Workshop Book
Model: 1561582719
Author: Scott Landis
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
GUESTS :
Darrin John
Knoxville, TN General Contractor
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