Prep Work = 2 hours
Cutting Hole in the Ceiling and Marking the Roof = 4 hours
Cut Roof Opening, Install Skylight and Replace Shingles = 4 hours
Finishing Touches = 4 hours
Total hours spent on project = 14 hours over 2-1/2 days On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the hardest, this project is a 3. We spent approximately $700 on supplies for this project. If you hired a contractor to install a skylight, it would probably cost you around $1,200. Materials: Skylight
Hammer
Screwdrivers
Nails and screws
Plastic sheeting
Pry bar
Reciprocating saw or circular saw
Level
Keyhole saw
Cat's paw
Roofing felt and step flashing
Sheets of drywall
Joint compound
Drywall tools and tape
Taping knife
Multi-Head Shower
Silicone caulk
Pencil
Socket set
Tape measure
Drill and bits
Hex wrenches
Shims
Adhesive tape
2 x 4's
2 x 10
Paint - The electrical wires need to be connected to the motor. Join the low voltage wires of the window motor to the non-metallic building electrical wire previously used for the can light with some electrical tape (figure A).
- Go into the attic and pull the wires to the location where the transformer will be mounted. Placing it in the attic will allow access to it, if it should ever need replacing.
- Install the metal 4 x 4 junction box to a stud (figure B).
- Cut off the excess of both the low voltage and non-metallic building electrical wires. Then, pull the non-metallic building electrical wire under the junction box and bring it through a knock out plug.
- Strip the wires and attach the black wire from the non-metallic sheathed cable to the black wire from the transformer with wire nuts. Attach the white wire to the white wire with wire nuts (figure C).
- The non-metallic building electrical wire connection goes inside the junction box once those connections are made; then mount the transformer to the junction box.
- Strip the low voltage wires of the skylight motor and connect them to the transformer (figure D). That completes the wiring for the attic.
- Back at the skylight remove the housing where the motor is located. Strip the wires and connect the black to the black and red to red using wire nuts. Put the wires back inside the housing and replace the cover. This completes the wiring.
- Remove the blocking you used to set the window in place (figure E).
- It is time to do the trim work. Install some screws through the drywall and into the 2 x 10 braces that you installed between the rafters when you were outside (figure F).
- Measure the bottom of the window and use 1 x 12's of clear pine to trim out the window. Use a circular saw to cut the length and then use a table saw to rip the edge down to size (figure G). Repeat the same process for the top part of the skylight.
- Measure for the sides and cut them the same way as the top and bottom boards. For the bottom board, notch an area about 1/4-inch (figure H) to give you just enough room for the motor wires.
- Make sure that you lift the motor up as you place the board into position in order to have a tight fit. Nail it in place.
- Now, the top goes in. Use 1-1/2 inch finish nails to secure the 1 x 4's in place. The longer side boards go up next.
- Use an adjustable square to mark a 1/4-inch reveal around the edges of the 1 x 4's. Install a 2-1/4 inch casing around the skylight. Cut the 45-degree corners (figure I). Nail the trim with a finish nailer.
- Caulk all of the nail holes and corners and then paint the wood trim to match the ceiling.
Expert Tip: When you begin finishing the interior of your skylight opening, it is a good idea to use the lightest color you can in order to maximize the daylight coming in. Don't forget to insulate the shaft between the roof and the ceiling.
RESOURCES :
Self-Flashing Venting Skylight (ODL)
Model #2852
ODL Incorporated
Website: www.odl.com
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