If you're building a sunroom and you've finished framing the roof and getting the floor in place, you can begin installing the windows.
Materials:
Circular saw
Wooden shims
Speed square
Framing square
Hammer
Drill, with drill bits and screwdriver bits
8-penny nails
Galvanized screws
Plywood sheathing
2" x 4" lumber
Custom-sized windows
Silicone caulk
Gloves
Dust mask
Safety glasses
When framing your window wall, use a continuous header to help keep the weight of the roof off the windows. The header will transfer the weight to the corner posts instead.
It's important to install the first window correctly; it will serve as a benchmark for the remaining windows.
- Install 2" by 4" studs between each window location (figure A). The windows will be attached to the these studs, called "mullions," which add further support for the roof.
- Mark the location for the studs on the sole plate, based on the manufacturer's information on rough opening sizes for the windows. Use a speed square to mark a straight line across the sole plate. Be sure to mark the sole plate with the interior measurement: that is, the inside edge of the stud will be placed along the mark ( figure B). Measure 1 1/2" (the standard width of a stud) to determine the outside measurement.
- Toenail the studs into place with 8-penny nails.
- Install the cripples--short 2" by 4" boards placed on either side of the mullions. The cripples support the window stools, or sills, which in turn support the windows. Cut the cripples 1 1/2" less than the stool height, and attach them with 8-penny nails.
- Use a level and a string or chalk line to be sure all the window stools are on the same plane. Nail the stools onto the cripples, and toenail the stools into the mullions (figure C).
- Cut strips of plywood sheathing to size, and nail them in place on the outside of the sunroom (figure D). Attach a strip of sheathing to each stud.
- Place shims in the bottom of the window opening (figure E). The shims will provide support for nailing the windows in place.
- Attach the windows to the wall by nailing them through the flange with galvanized nails (figure F). Attach the windows only in the four corners; you may need to remove them for repositioning later. When you're sure the windows are positioned correctly, you can finish nailing them in place.
If the manufacturer's instructions call for filler strips to go between the windows, use the strips to gauge how far away the windows should be placed from each other. - Remove the molding from the interior of the windows, and use 8-penny finish nails to attach the jamb to the mullion studs. You will probably need to wedge a wooden shim between the jamb and the mullion so that you'll have a solid surface to nail into.
- Use #8 galvanized finish nails to attach the filler strips between the windows (figure G). The filler strips are designed so that a piece of vinyl trim can be attached easily to cover any rough cuts or openings. Nail the filler strips in the center so that you don't damage the channels for the flashing.
- Press the vinyl trim in place (figure H). Be sure the trim is flush with the bottom and top of the filler strip before you press it in place permanently. You may want to use a wood block and a hammer to attach the vinyl so that you don't damage it (figure I). Apply a bead of silicone caulk at the top of the vinyl strip to keep out moisture.
- Install vinyl flashing over the trim pieces (figure J). The flashing acts as an additional moisture barrier.
Most windows are designed so that you can install molding around them or butt vinyl siding directly against them. - Inside the sunroom, use a putty knife to press fiberglass insulation into the gaps around the window frame (figure K). This process, known as "chinking," will make your sunroom much more energy-efficient. Fiberglass insulation can irritate your skin, eyes and lungs, so be sure to wear proper safety equipment.
- Use standard dry-wall installation techniques to put up your dry wall before trimming out the windows.
- Measure the area for the stool, and cut the stool with a jigsaw. Notch the areas where the stool will fit around the studs figure L). Make the stool long enough to extend past the window frames.
- Slide the stool into place, and nail it down in the corners of each window. You will probably need to use shims in front of the windows to be sure the stool is level.
- Cut out the head extension jamb (figure M) in the same manner as the stool.
- Attach the side extension jambs, which may be supplied with the windows, by sliding them into place and securing them with finish nails (figure N).
- Set the window casing 1/4" back from the edge of the extension jamb to create a "reveal" (figure O). Use 1/4" wooden shims to help set the spacing for the reveal. Nail the casing with finish nails or brads. The window casing should be mitered in the corners.
- Install the apron, which fits under the stool. Install a mitered return piece on any exposed ends on the apron (figure P). The apron should be installed so that the thicker portion is near the stool and the ends are flush with the ends of the stool.
- Finish the project by nailing the mullion casing to the extension jambs between every two adjoining windows (figure Q).
RESOURCES :
Andersen casement windows
Hunter Douglas Window Fashions
Broomfield, CO 80020
Phone: 303-466-1848
Website: www.hunterdouglas.com
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