Forestry expert Wayne Clatterbuck shares tips on pruning trees. In order to do a proper job of pruning, you must have some understanding of the tree. Pines, for example, are often pruned incorrectly. Pines' growth buds are located at the ends of branches, and if the buds are removed, the branch won't grow. To prune a pine, clip just the growth tips, or candles, in spring to keep the tree bushy and full. The old recommendation for removing a large branch was to cut it off flush with the trunk. Now experts advise leaving the branch collar--the swollen area just outside the branch bark ridge, where the branch and trunk tissue meet. If the cut is made at the proper spot, a callus of new tissue will eventually grow over the wound. Begin removing a large branch by first making a small cut on the underside of the branch 8" to 12" from the trunk (figure A). Next, cut off most of the branch, leaving a foot or so, including the first cut you made (figure B). With the final cut you'll remove the stub up to the branch collar (figure C). If you try to remove a large, heavy branch in one stroke, it may fall from the tree before it's cut all the way through, tearing the branch collar. Trees should be pruned during the dormant season. Even evergreens should be pruned in winter, before the sap starts to flow. The loss of sap can damage a tree, but that won't be a problem if you prune during the cold months of the year. Do not seal the pruning cuts; wound dressings and pruning paints don't speed healing of the cut and may encourage decay. The tree's sap will seal off the wound, and ultimately callus tissue will grow over it. If the weather has been dry, water the tree to increase the flow of sap.
GUESTS :
Wayne Clatterbuck
UT Agricultural Extension Service
PO Box 1971
Knoxville, TN 37901-1071
Phone: 865-974-7346
Fax: 865-974-1068
Email: aes.wclatterbuck@utk.edu
Website: http://www.utextension.utk.edu
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