Improper planting probably kills more trees each year than disease and drought combined. When you go shopping for trees at a nursery, you'll find container-grown trees or balled-and-burlapped specimens--or perhaps both. Container-grown trees are usually sold in 5-, 10- or 15-gallon pots. Select trees with straight trunks and no signs of disease or pests. Balled-and-burlapped trees have been grown in the ground, then dug up and the roots wrapped in burlap to prevent them from drying out. The burlap used on balled-and-burlapped trees may be natural or synthetic. If you're not sure, ask a nursery employee. Natural burlap will rot and need not be removed from the tree before planting. Synthetic burlap won't break down, however, and must be removed. Dig the planting hole and set the wrapped tree in place. Cut away any string or twine that holds the wrapping in place. If the burlap is synthetic, remove as much as you can without disturbing the root ball (figure A). If you can't pull it off, use scissors and cut away the burlap. Make sure the tree is straight in the hole. This is the time to pound in any stakes, making sure not to pierce the root ball. If the soil on the sides of the planing hole is hard, use a cultivating tool to loosen it so the roots will have less trouble penetrating the soil. Fill in the soil around the root ball. The swollen base of the trunk, or the heel, should be just above the surface. Tamp the soil in place with the handle of your shovel (the blade could cut into the roots) to remove any air pockets. To prevent weed growth around the base of the tree, put down a recycled-rubber mat--which also serves as a mowing strip if the tree is planted in a lawn. If no weeds are growing near the base of the trunk, you won't need to use a string trimmer or a mower near the tree and take the risk of injuring the bark. You can mulch over the top of the mat if you like. After planting, water the tree well, but apply no fertilizer until the tree begins to show signs of new growth.
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