Charlie Nardozzi of the National Gardening Association offers planting tips to help you grow beautiful, healthy trees. If you want your trees to flourish, choose sites suited to each plant's needs. Don't plant a sun-loving tree in the shade or vice-versa. And don't plant a tree that will get 80' tall 4' away from the house or in the path of power lines. Avoid planting near sidewalks and driveways. Choose an area with well-drained soil. If you do plant in a damp spot, choose a tree that will tolerate wet soil, such as a scarlet maple, an alder or a Southern magnolia. Charlie recommends the dogwoods in the Stellar Series (Cornus x rutgersensis , cultivars include 'Aurora' and 'Ruth Ellen'), beautiful and sturdy trees that have attractive fall foliage and are resistant to anthracnose blight and dogwood borer. The flowers of Stellar dogwoods may be a little larger than those of other dogwoods (figure A). When planting a tree, dig a planting hole 2' to 3' wider than the root ball (figure B) to allow plenty of room for the roots. Planting depth should be equal to the height of the root ball. Nurserymen used to recommend adding soil amendments when planting trees, but research proves that it's better not to improve the soil. Why? Rich soil in the planting hole discourages roots from venturing into the leaner surrounding soil and becoming well anchored. Simply fill the hole in with the native soil, and pack it down lightly to get rid of air pockets. If you like, add a handful of bone meal to stimulate root growth. When moving heavy trees, support the root ball with both hands. Ask a friend or neighbor to help you place the tree in the hole, and make sure the planting depth is correct. If the roots are wound tightly, loosen them with a knife or clippers (figure C). You don't have to prune the roots heavily -- just enough to loosen them. If the tree is planted in a windy area, consider using stakes. Make sure not to pound stakes through the root ball. Leave stake in place for only a year or two. By that time the roots should be able to support the tree. Once the tree is planted, apply bark mulch, but leave a gap between trunk and mulch to prevent rot. A 3"- or 4"-deep layer of mulch covering the planting hole will help prevent the soil from drying out. Mice can be a problem in cold-winter areas, where they tunnel through the snow and eat the bark of young trees. If enough bark is removed, the tree may die. To protect young trees, purchase mouse guards (figure D), or create your own by removing the bottom from a nursery pot, slitting the side and using it to encircle the trunk. Add mulch, and the base of the guard will be below the surface, preventing critters from reaching the bark. If you're planting a tree by yourself, it can be hard to keep the tree straight and fill in the soil at the same time. Prop the tree in place with a 4" by 4" piece of lumber and some string (figure E), then stand back and make sure the tree is straight. Fill in with soil. If you must plant a tree by yourself, hold it in place with a piece of 4 by 4, while you fill in the dirt (figure F). If it's windy, also tie the sapling to the 4 by 4 with a piece of laundry cord. Tip: - Instead of using the trowel blade to pack the soil as you plant, use the trowel handle. That way you don't run the risk of damaging the roots.
RESOURCES :
For plants from Wolf River Valley Farms
Wolf River Valley Farms
Pall Mall, TN 38577
Fax: 1-931-879-5479
Email: pwpg@twlakes.net
Website: www.wolfriver.net
For tools from the Gardener's Supply Co.
Gardener's Supply Company
Burlington, VT 05401-2850
Fax: 800-551-6712 -or- 80
Email: info@gardeners.com
Website: www.gardeners.com
GUESTS :
Charlie Nardozzi
180 Flynn Ave.
Burlington, VT 05401
Phone: 802-863-1308
Tollfree Phone: 800-538-7476
Fax: 802-863-5962
Email: nga@garden.com
Website: www.garden.com
National Gardening Association
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