| Pegboard Storage Cabinet |
From "Ask DIY"
episode ADI-513 |
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Q: I need to clear up the clutter in my garage. Do you have any ideas to help me? A: (Brad Staggs, Ask DIY Home-Improvement expert) Here's how to make a simple pegboard cabinet (figure A) that can greatly increase your storage area. You can make it any size, depending on the area where you'll be attaching it to the wall; the one in our demonstration is 36" wide and 30" high. Materials:
Pine, oak or fir 1x4 wood for frame
Three pegboard panels (one at full measurement for the back and two at half the width for the doors)
Safety glasses
Galvanized screws
Drill
Framing square (optional)
Small block of wood
Handles
Piano hinge and screws
Hammer drill (optional)
Wood screws (optional) Safety tip: Be sure to wear safety glasses when working with power tools. - Determine how large you want the cabinet to be, then transfer the dimensions to pegboard and cut it -- or have it cut -- to the right size. Predrill screw holes around the sides of all pegboard pieces.
Note: Essentially, the cabinet consists of a back and two doors, each of which is half the width of the back. So if your cabinet will be 36" (w) by 30" (h), you'll need one piece that size and two pieces (for the doors) that are 18" (w) by 30" (h). - Cut the 1x4s to the correct size to form the frames for the cabinet and the doors.
- Form the frames, joining the corners with butt joints (figure B) -- that is, joints formed by butting two pieces together and securing them, thus eliminating the need for mitering. Drill pilot holes in each corner and insert galvanized screws.
Note: It's usually a good idea to drill pilot holes anytime you're working near the edge of the wood (figure C). Then you won't have to worry about inserting the screw too near the edge and splitting the wood. - Square up the frame as you work, either with a framing square or by this handy shortcut: make sure the pegboard is cut perfectly square, then use it to line up the frame (figure D). Doing this makes the job of squaring much faster and more accurate.
- If you plan to add a handle in the lower corner of each door, first attach a small block of wood to the inside of the door at that point (figure E). This will provide a surface into which you can drive the screw to hold the handle (figure F).
- Fit the piano hinges on the doors (figure G), then predrill holes and attach the hinges to the doors with screws (about one in every other hole should work).
- Attach the doors to the cabinet frame (figure H). You'll need an assistant for this step.
- Attach the base to the wall, using a hammer drill and masonry screws (figure I) if necessary (if attaching the base to wall studs, use wood screws).
- Attach the pegboard back to the base (figure J).
Q: I have a sticky door lock. How do I get rid of my sticky problem? A: Just rub a pencil along the key and run the key in and out of the lock several times. The pencil lead will leave traces of graphite on the key, and graphite is great for loosening sticky tumblers in locks. Q: What is the length of an anode rod? A: The standard length of a water-heater anode rod is 44", but you can buy flexible ones that can be adjusted by bending. Q: The caulk in my bathroom is stained. Can I clean it? A: Yes, a product such as TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a cleaner that contains bleach may help. Apply the cleaner and scrub with a toothbrush to remove stains. (Oh, and you won't want to brush your teeth with the toothbrush afterward!)
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