| Repairing Toilets |
From "Plumbing"
episode DPB-103 |
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The modern toilet has been around awhile, but its workings remain a mystery to many people. When a toilet malfunctions, there's usually more to fixing it than jiggling the handle. But as master plumber Ed Del Grande explains, repairing or replacing one is by no means too difficult for the average homeowner. How It Works The driving force that makes a toilet work is gravity. Water enters the toilet through a supply line equipped with a shutoff valve, or "closet stop," at the base of the toilet (figure A). After the water travels up the supply line through the base of the tank, it's diverted in two directions by an inlet-valve assembly sometimes called a ballcock. Most of the water goes into the tank, but some goes directly into the bowl via a fill tube that runs down through an overflow tube (figure B). As a result, as the tank fills up, so does the bowl. How does the toilet know when to stop filling? As water fills the tank, a float ball (figure C) rises until it reaches a certain point, where it begins putting pressure on the ballcock (figure D), which shuts off the flow of water. When you flush the toilet, the handle trips a lever that raises a lift rod or chain, which in turn raises a flapper that covers an opening at the bottom of the tank (figure E), called the flush-valve seat. When the flapper is raised, gravity pulls water from the tank into the hollow body of the bowl, then into the bowl itself through small passages just under the rim. The cyclone effect caused by water's rushing into the bowl is what carries waste down through the drain at the bottom of the bowl. Almost immediately after it opens, the flapper drops back into its seat, and the tank begins filling again. Depending on the brand or style of the toilet, the parts inside the tank may vary, but they perform the same basic operations. For instance, the float device in older models is often made of copper, whereas newer ones are plastic. The mechanism lifting the flapper may be a rod or a chain. Flappers also come in different types. Older ballcock assemblies are sometimes made of brass; newer ones are plastic. Finally, some toilets don't use a float ball but instead have a float cup that slides up and down a tube as the water level rises and falls (figure F). This setup combines the float and ballcock into one unit. It achieves the same result as the float and lever but is a bit more precise. Tip: The water in the toilet tank is clean because the tank is physically separated from the bowl. Some people put bleach in the tank in an attempt to remove rust stains or other discoloration from the porcelain sides. This practice should be avoided, as bleach and other chemicals can damage or shrink rubber seals and cause malfunctions. Common Problems Problem 1: Water Flowing Into the Bowl One aggravating toilet malfunction occurs when water constantly runs into the bowl. This indicates a continuous leak from the tank into the bowl, and it can occur at two places: at the overflow tube or the flapper. Take a look inside the tank. If the water level rises above the overflow tube, the problem may be with either the float or the inlet valve on the ballcock. Remember that the float rises with the level of the water and tells the inlet valve when to shut off the flow. If this mechanism doesn't work properly, the water keeps rising until it spills through the overflow tube and into the bowl (figure G). To check the inlet valve, flush the toilet and, as the water rises, gently lift the rod that holds the float (figure H) until you hear the water stop. If the water stops, the inlet valve is OK, and the problem is caused by the float. A screw at the top of the ballcock (figure I) allows you to adjust the level of the float. With this adjustment, you should be able to reduce the level to which the water rises in the tank. If the adjustment fails to stop water from running into the overflow tube, the problem may be with the float itself. For instance, if the float has a hole in it and lies too low in the water, it never rises enough to trip the inlet valve. Check to see whether the float needs replacing. A new rod and float are easy to replace and cost only a few dollars. If you test the inlet valve as described above and the water doesn't stop, the problem is with the ballcock itself. Though it's possible to repair a broken ballcock, it's usually best to replace the whole assembly: - After turning off the water at the shutoff valve, flush the toilet, and hold down the handle to remove most of the water from the tank. Remove the excess water at the bottom of the tank with a sponge.
- Remove the supply line that connects to the bottom of the ballcock at the base of the tank (figure J). Use slip-joint pliers to remove the nut securing the ballcock to the tank.
- Pushing up from the bottom, lift out the assembly (figure K).
- Drop the new ballcock assembly into place. Thread on a new nut from underneath the tank, and tighten with slip-joint pliers. (Don't overtighten the nut, or you could crack the tank.) Reattach the supply line.
- Inside the tank, clip the new refill tube in place (figure L). Turn the water on at the shutoff.
If you've checked the water level in the tank and it's not rising above the overflow tube but you still hear or see water leak into the bowl, the second possible source of the leak is around the flapper. Testing for this is simple: turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve, then wait to see whether the level in the tank drops. If it drops noticeably after about 15 minutes, the problem could be a flapper chain that's too tight, preventing the flapper from dropping all the way into the seat, or a leak in the flapper. Replacing a flapper is easy. The first step is to drain the tank. - Turn off the water at the shutoff valve, flush the toilet, and hold down the handle. There may be a little water left in the bottom of the tank, but don't worry about it.
- Wipe the flapper seat with a clean cloth to make sure it's free of debris, and check it for cracks or splits (figure M).
- Check the flapper to make sure it's not torn and that it fits tightly against the seat. If the flapper is damaged or worn, pull it loose and replace it. Just pop a matching flapper onto the hinges at the base of the overflow tube (figure N).
Problem 2: Water Trickling Into the Bowl, or "Phantom Flushes" You may periodically hear your toilet begin to spontaneously refill, as though someone had flushed it. A toilet that cuts on and off by itself, or runs intermittently, has a problem that plumbers call a phantom flush. The cause is a very slow leak from the tank into the bowl. This problem is almost certainly caused by a bad flapper or flapper seat. The solution is the same as the three steps described above--to drain the tank and bowl, check and clean the flapper seat and replace the flapper if it's worn or damaged. Problem 3: Water Trickling Into the Tank If you hear a sustained hissing sound coming from your toilet, it's probably a result of water trickling into the tank via the supply line. In this case the parts to check are the float, the refill tube and the ballcock or inlet-valve assembly. The hissing sound is typically caused by water coming through the inlet valve. First check to see whether the float is sticking or needs adjusting. Next, check to make sure the refill tube isn't inserted too far into the overflow tube. (It should extend only about 1/4" below the rim of the overflow tube.) If neither of these adjustments solves the problem, you'll probably need to replace the ballcock assembly as described above. Problem 4: The Bowl Empties Slowly A bowl that empties slowly--also known as a weak flush--is usually the result of clogged holes underneath the rim of the bowl. Use a curved piece of wire to poke gently into each flush hole to clear out any debris. Coat-hanger wire works fine, and a small mirror will help you see under the rim (figure O). You can also use wire to loosen debris that may be blocking the siphon jet in the bottom of the drain. Be careful not to scratch the bowl. Problem 5: The Dreaded Clog Clogs are the most common toilet problems. Several tools can help you clear a clogged drain. A force-cup plunger (figure P) is more effective than the familiar standard type for clearing minor clogs. Insert the bulb into the drain, and pump forcefully. Slowly release the handle, letting a little water in so you can see whether the drain is clear. Repeat if necessary. It's a good idea to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from splashes. For serious clogs, use a closet auger. Insert the end of the auger into the drain hole, and twist the handle as you push the rotor downward (figure Q). Use caution not to scratch the bowl. Problem 6: Leaky Seals A standard toilet has at least five seals with the potential for leaking. In each case, the solution is to identify the faulty seal and tighten or replace it. The largest seal is the one between the tank and bowl. A break here will cause a major leak, with water shooting out from underneath the tank at every flush. Replacing this seal involves draining and removing the tank. Turn the tank upside down for better access. Remove the old seal (figure R) and pop on a new one. The smaller seals at the mounting bolts and the base of the ballcock (figure S) may also fail and cause smaller leaks. Replace these in the same way. Tightening the bolts or mounting nut occasionally is enough to stop the leak. The final seal is the wax seal mounted on a plastic flange underneath the toilet base (figure T). If this seal fails, water leaking underneath the toilet base will eventually rot the floor. Caulking around the base of the toilet without repairing the leak will only trap the water, making matters worse. To repair a leak around the base of the toilet, you'll need to remove the toilet and replace the wax seal. If the leak is caused by a broken flange, get the help of a professional plumber. Replacing a Toilet If your toilet is worn or damaged--or you'd just like to replace it--you can do the job yourself. Installing a toilet is a moderately difficult project that can usually be accomplished in about one afternoon. It's best if you have an assistant to help you lift the old tank and bowl and the replacement pieces. If your replacement toilet is a newer model with the bowl and tank connected, lifting it will almost certainly require two people. Materials:
Toilet
Wax seal
Force-cup plunger
Slip-joint pliers
Adjustable wrench
Hacksaw
Putty knife
Rubber gloves
Rag
- After turning off the water at the shutoff, flush the toilet to remove most of the water from the tank and bowl. A little water will be left in the bowl. Use a force-cup plunger to force it down the drain line. Remove the remaining water from the tank with a sponge and a bucket.
- Disconnect the supply line from the base of the tank.
- To remove the old toilet, pop off the trim caps at the base of the toilet. Next, loosen and remove the nuts and washers on the closet bolts securing the bowl to the floor. If the nuts are rusted, you may need to cut them off with a hacksaw. Note: If you're working alone, disconnect the tank from the bowl before disconnecting and removing the bowl. Lifting the two pieces separately will be a lot easier.
- Now that you've removed the nut and washer on each side of the bowl, gently rock the toilet back and forth until you can lift it free (figure U). Once you've removed the toilet, there will be an open line to the sewer system. Stuff a rag into the hole to prevent sewer gases from backing up into your home and to prevent tools from falling into the hole.
- Use a putty knife to pry up and remove the old wax seal (figure V). Inspect the flange beneath the seal to make sure it's not cracked. Once you've inspected the flange, remove the rag from the hole. If the flange is damaged, get help from a plumber. If the flange is okay, remove the rag from the hole and take the closet bolts out of the flange. Install the new wax seal, and hook the new closet bolts into their slots on the flange (figure W). Important: Remove the rag before installing the new wax seal. Leaving it in is a common and costly mistake.
- With the closet bolts and seal in place, you can attach the tank and bowl to assemble the new toilet. Slide the tank bolts through the opening in the bottom of the tank. Line up the shank of the bolts with the holes in the bowl, and drop the tank into place (figure X). Secure the tank to the bowl by tightening a nut onto each tank bolt. Evenly tighten all the nuts until the tank rests firmly on the bowl.
- Set the assembled toilet onto the flange assembly, making sure that the closet bolts protruding from the floor line up with the holes in the base (figure Y). Lightly press the toilet in place to form a good seal with the wax ring.
- Place a couple of washers and a nut on each bolt. Secure the nuts with a small wrench, but don't overtighten them. If the bolts extend too far over the top of the washers and nuts, cut off the excess with a hacksaw.
- Pop the trim caps in place to cover the ends of the bolts.
- Secure the new seat and lid to the bowl with mounting bolts.
- Use slip-joint pliers to reconnect the supply line to the bottom of the tank.
Tip: Keeping your toilets in good repair will save you money. Even a small leak may waste as much as 40 gallons of water per day.
RESOURCES :
Plumbing for Dummies
Model: 0764551744
Author: Gene and Katie Hamilton
1999; Out of Print
IDG Books Worldwide, Inc. (An International Data Group Company)
Foster City, CA 94404
Do-It-Yourself Plumbing
Model: 0060101229
Author: Max Alth
Sterling Publishing, 1987
Out of Print
Installing and Repairing Plumbing Fixtures
Model: 1561580759
Author: Peter Hemp
1994
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Complete Book of Kitchen and Bathroom Renovation
Time Life Books
Website: www.timelife.com
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Repairing Toilets |
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