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  • Installing Protective Pipe Sleeves, Caulking Minor Gaps
  • From "Complete Fix-It"
    episode CFI-109
    advertisement

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Because pipes come in a variety of sizes, be sure to measure before you buy pipe insulation.

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Seal gaps around an electrical outlet with a spray sealing foam; let it dry and then cut off the excess with a utility knife. Then replace the cover. (Be sure to wear rubber gloves and eye protection when working with this type of product.)

    Materials:

    Wire brush
    Utility knife or scissors
    Masking tape and duct tape
    Caulk and caulk gun
    Tape measure
    Gloves
    Eye protection
    Pipe insulation

    Attaching Various Foam-Rubber Insulators

    1. Prepare the pipes by cleaning them, scraping off any rust with a wire brush.
    2. Cut to length pieces of foam-rubber pipe insulation that fit the diameter of the pipe.
    3. Open the slit in each tube, and slip the insulation over the pipe.
    4. If the insulation is self-adhesive, remover the cellophane strips covering the tape and press to adhere. If you are using insulation that isn't taped, use duct tape to hold it in place.

    Making the Different Needed Cuts
    1. At an elbow joint, cut one end of each insulation strip at a 45-degree angle and butt the two ends together around the joint (figure A).
    2. At a T-joint, cut one end of the center insulation strip at two 45-degree angles, forming an end that looks somewhat like a spear. Then cut one end of each of the side pieces at a 45-degree angle, and butt them against the center piece (figure B). Secure the joint with tape.

    Preparing the Caulk

    Use a utility knife to cut off the tip of a tube of silicone or water-based acrylic caulk so its opening is slightly smaller than the width of the crack. (You may prefer to cut the tip at a steep angle, or nearly straight.) If the caulk tube is not all plastic, you may have to break a foil seal at the base of the tip by inserting a long nail or a piece of stiff wire (attached to most caulking guns).

    Applying Caulk Around Trim

    1. Although caulking behind the trim is the best way to stop air leakage, caulking around it will save you from removing the trim.
    2. Clean the outer edge of the trim with a mild soap solution, rinse, and dry.
    3. For a more finished-looking bead of caulk, apply masking tape in straight lines to both sides of the area to be caulked (figure C).
    4. With a caulking gun, lay a continuous bead between the trim and the wall.
    5. You may apply a bead of caulk and then leave it alone or smooth it out.
    Smoothing the Caulk
    1. Let the caulk dry until it is no longer tacky but has not yet formed a skin.
    2. Wearing rubber gloves, gently slide an ice cube over the center of the bead of caulk to make a smooth, slightly concave surface.
    3. As an alternative, smooth the caulk using a bare or gloved finger moistened with a soap-and-water solution.
    4. If you applied masking tape, pull it off.
    5. Cut away excess caulk with a sharp utility knife.
    Estimated Cost:

    Foam pipe insulators = $19.27
    Silicone latex caulk = $3.16
    Masking tape = $3.98
    Duct tape = $2.87
    Total = $29.28

    Note: To order the new HGTV's Complete Fix-It book, see Resources, below.


    RESOURCES :

    HGTV's Complete Fix-It
    Author: HGTV

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