| Tip of the Day: Replacing Copper Pipe |
From "Complete Fix-It" episode CFI-106 |
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Note: Illustration A, Illustration B, Illustration C, Illustration D, Illustration E, Illustration F, available using Cutting Copper Pipe - Close the main shutoff valve and drain the supply lines by opening a faucet located below the pipe you are working on.
- Fit a tube cutter around the pipe next to the break. Turn the knob clockwise until the cutting disk begins to bite into the pipe (illustration A, click above to view). Rotate the cutter once around the pipe, then tighten the knob and rotate again. Continue tightening and turning the tube cutter until the pipe is severed.
- Loosen the knob, slide the cutter down the pipe, and cut the pipe on the other side of the break. Use the triangular blade attached to the cutter to ream out the burrs inside the pipe.
Measuring Pipe - Fit standard couplings (illustration B, click above to view) on the ends of the old pipe, hold the new pipe against the gap, and mark it at the coupling ridges.
- Alternately, use slip couplings, which slide all the way onto the pipe. In that case, cut the pipe to completely fill the gap between the two cut ends of the old pipe.
- Cut the replacement pipe at the mark with a tube cutter.
Preparing the Joints - Rub the inside of the couplings and the ends of the old and new pipes with emery cloth until they are bright and shiny (illustration C, click above to view). This is an important step; solder will not adhere to copper if it is not sanded.
- Remove any grit left on the surface with a clean, dry cloth.
Brushing Joints With Flux Soldering flux for copper pipe typically comes with a small brush. Take care to keep the bristles free of dirt and grit. - With the brush, spread a thick and even coat of soldering flux on all the cleaned pipe surfaces (illustration D, click above to view) -- both the outsides of the pipes and the insides of the fittings. Also dry the insides of the standing pipes at their ends.
Fitting the Replacement Pipe - If you are using standard couplings, slide them onto the standing pipes until they bottom out. Insert the replacement pipe into one coupling. Gently pull the pipes apart (illustration E, click above to view) so you can slip the other end into the second coupling. Give the new pipe and the fittings a quarter-turn to evenly distribute the flux.
- If you are using slip couplings, slide them all the way onto the standing pipes. Hold the replacement pipe in place, and slide each coupling over its joint. Give the new pipe and fittings a quarter-turn to evenly distribute the flux.
Soldering the Joint - Wear safety goggles and work gloves, and protect flammable materials in the area with a fireproof shield.
- Light a propane torch and dance the flame over the fitting -- not the pipe. Heat the fitting all around, if possible. It typically takes half a minute to heat the fitting enough to melt solder.
- Touch the tip of the wire solder to the joint until it melts and is sucked (via capillary action) into the fitting (illustration F, click above to view). Do not let the flame touch the solder.
- Keep feeding the solder into the joint until a bead of metal appears around the edge. Repeat for both sides of the fitting. Before the solder has a chance to cool, wipe the joint with a damp towel.
Note: To order the new HGTV's Complete Fix-It book, see Resources, below. Illustrations (Copyright) Time-Life Books 2000.
RESOURCES :
HGTV's Complete Fix-It
Author: HGTV
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