| Pipe Basics |
From "Plumbing"
episode DPB-102 |
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Figure A
Figure B
Regardless of grade, all copper pipe accepts the same fittings. Copper fittings may include (clockwise from bottom) tees, male threaded adapters, female threaded adapters, couplings, 45-degree offsets and 90-degree elbows.
Figure C
Figure D
Figure E
Figure G
Figure H
Figure I
The compression fitting consists of (left to right) a compression nut, a brass ring, or "ferrule," and a fitting body. The ferrule has beveled edges, and as the nut and fitting body thread together, they compress the ferrule to form a watertight seal.
Figure J
Flare fittings are useful in critical spots where water pressure is high and pipe blowouts are likely--such as in lines connecting a main shutoff valve to a water service.
Figure K
Figure L
Figure M
Figure N
Figure O
Figure P
Figure Q
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If the baffling array of materials in the plumbing section of your home-improvement center intimidates you, take heart. The plumbing system in your home is simpler than you might think. Master plumber Ed Del Grande offers some straightforward information about pipes, fittings and the fundamentals of plumbing repair. The foundation of your plumbing system is good piping and strong joints. Pipes may be made from a variety of materials, including cast iron, ABS plastic, Pex piping, etc. The most common used materials for residential plumbing, however, are copper pipes for water-supply lines and PVC plastic for drain lines (figure A). Though copper piping is relatively expensive, it's durable and comes in a variety of grades. Type M is the most basic grade and meets minimum building codes. It is thin-walled tubing and is marked for identification with red lettering. Type L is about twice as strong as type M and is a good choice for upgrading your plumbing system. It is marked with blue lettering (figure B). Type K is even stronger and is intended mainly for commercial use. It is marked with orange lettering. Soft copper tubing is sold in a coil and bends easily. It's well suited for use in tight spaces and in situations involving awkward bends, and it requires fewer joints. A tubing cutter is the best tool for cutting copper pipe. Turn the handle to tighten the blade against the pipe (figure C) as you twist the cutter around the pipe in a circular motion. Several turns are usually sufficient to cut through the pipe. Most cutters also include a reamer tool--a short blade used to remove metal burrs after the pipe has been cut. A mini-cutter (figure D) is handy for cutting pipe in tight spaces. Soldering, or "Sweating," a Joint Soldering--using a torch to join two metals together--is a common technique for joining pipes. Always wear protective glasses and follow proper safety precautions when working with a soldering torch. Materials: Copper pipes and fitting
Emery cloth or pipe-cleaning brush
Flux
Silver solder
Soldering torch and striker
Tubing cutter
Safety glasses
- Begin by preparing the pipe to be soldered. The copper surface must be clean in order to form a good joint. Clean the end of the pipe on the outside with emery cloth or a specially made wire brush. Do the same with the inside of the fitting (figure E).
- Apply flux--a paste formulated to remove oxides and draw molten solder into the joint--to the surfaces to be joined. Use a brush to coat the inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe (figure F).
- Push the two pipes to be joined firmly into place so that they "bottom out"--i.e., meet flush inside the fitting.
- To avoid over-soldering, bend the tip of the solder to the size of the pipe ( figure G).
- With the pipes and fitting in place, ignite the torch with the striker. (Some torches are equipped with auto-igniters, so a striker may not be necessary.)
- Wearing safety glasses and keeping the torch well away from your face, use the tip of the blue flame to heat the pipe ends and fitting (figure H).
- After heating for a few moments, test whether the copper surface is hot enough by touching it with the end of the solder. If it melts, touch the solder to the joint seam, and watch for it to run around the joint (figure I).
- Turn off the torch and wipe any drips of excess solder from the joint with a rag.
Compression Fittings Another method of connecting two pipes is by using compression fittings. These strong and reliable fittings can be put on using just a pair of wrenches. Because these fittings don't require heating, they work well in situations where you're working with wet pipe. - Before attaching a compression fitting, remove any burrs or debris from the inside and outside of the pipe ends.
- Slide the compression nut onto the end of the pipe (it should fit snugly), followed by the ferrule and the compression body.
- Slide the nut and ferrule onto the fitting threads, and hand-tighten.
- Firm the joint by using two wrenches to tighten the nut and fitting body securely (figure J).
Flare Fittings To create a stronger connection than you can achieve with soldered or compression fittings, use a flare fitting. A flare fitting consists of a flare nut and flare body. There's no ferrule because the copper pipe flares out, forming a lip that is sandwiched between the nut and body. Flaring the pipe requires a specialized tool. For this type of fitting, use at least type L or soft tubing. Materials: Copper pipe
Flare nut and flare fitting-body
Flaring tool
Two wrenches
Tubing cutter
- To install a flare fitting, first remove any burrs from the pipe ends, then slide the flare nut onto the pipe. Push it back far enough so that it will be out of the way when you use the flaring tool.
- Clip the pipe in the flaring tool, keeping the end flush with the face of the tool (figure K).
- Slowly turn the handle on the tool until it bottoms out.
- Unscrew the handle and remove the tool to check the quality of the flare. (If the flare isn't smooth or even the first time, cut off the end with your pipe cutter, and try the technique again.)
- Line up and tighten the nut and flared pipe to the fitting body (figure L). Make the connection as tight as you can.
Tip: Solid brass compression and flare fittings may cost ten times as much as copper fittings--and take twice as long to install. Use them where the most durable connections are required.
PVC Pipe, Fittings and Joints
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) piping has revolutionized modern plumbing. Before PVC was available, most drain lines were made of cast iron and connected at joints with molten lead. Like copper, PVC pipe comes in different grades or "schedules." Schedule 40 is sufficient for most home plumbing, although the heavier schedule 80 is an option for more substantial jobs. Cut PVC using a short, thick-bladed PVC saw. Line up the saw square with the pipe and, using short strokes, make a groove at your mark (figure M). Now apply pressure and use longer strokes. After making the cut, use the tip of the saw to ream out burrs. Always wear safety glasses when cutting PVC. Other options for cutting PVC include a power miter saw or a PVC cable saw. A power miter saw is a great time saver and makes cleaner cuts. A masonry blade is recommended when cutting PVC with power saws. Always take proper safety precautions when working with power tools. When using a cable saw (figure N), begin by looping the saw around the pipe and holding both handles firmly. Quickly move the cable back and forth, beginning with short strokes. As you lengthen the strokes, the rapid motion creates heat, and the cable melts its way through the pipe. Break the pipe off quickly before the plastic cools and hardens.
"Welding" PVC Piping
PVC joints are "welded" with chemical bonds rather than a torch. Creating the weld is a two-step process involving PVC primer and PVC cement (figure O). The chemical reaction fuses the pipes and fittings together, and if the process is done properly, the joint formed is as strong as the pipe itself. Materials: PVC pipe and fitting
PVC primer
PVC cement
- Always wear protective glasses and gloves when working with these chemicals. Protective glasses are especially important when working overhead, as chemicals could drip into your eyes.
- Spread primer on the outside of the pipe (figure P) and the inside of the fitting. The primer cleans away debris and begins to react with the plastic, softening the pipe.
- Smear cement over the same areas of the pipe and fitting.
- Push the pipe ends firmly into the fitting (figure Q) and twist.
- Hold the fitting and pipes stationary until the joint sets.
- Run water through the drain system to make certain the joint doesn't leak.
RESOURCES :
Plumbing for Dummies
Model: 0764551744
Author: Gene and Katie Hamilton
1999; Out of Print
IDG Books Worldwide, Inc. (An International Data Group Company)
Foster City, CA 94404
Do-It-Yourself Plumbing
Model: 0060101229
Author: Max Alth
Sterling Publishing, 1987
Out of Print
Installing and Repairing Plumbing Fixtures
Model: 1561580759
Author: Peter Hemp
1994
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Complete Book of Kitchen and Bathroom Renovation
Time Life Books
Website: www.timelife.com
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