| Water Filters |
From "Plumbing"
episode DPB-105 |
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If the water from your faucet has an undesirable taste or odor, installing a water filter can make a noticeable difference. Master plumber Ed Del Grande gives a crash course in how to install and maintain four of the most common types of household water filters. To learn more about the chemistry of the drinking water in your area, ask your utility company for a detailed report. If you want to go the extra distance (and cost), you can have your water tested by an independent laboratory. For the most part, water provided by public-utility systems is safe to drink. But whether you?re connected to city or well water, trace contaminants may give your water a discernible taste or odor. Categories of contaminants include rust, sediment, bacteria, heavy metals and other chemicals. Low-cost water filters will remove some of these impurities and can give your water a more neutral taste. Among the most effective home water filters are reverse-osmosis and distillation types. The reverse-osmosis type (figure A) has a special membrane to block out impurities, whereas the distillation type (figure B) turns the water to steam, then condenses it back to liquid, minus contaminants. These two systems produce the purest water, but they're expensive, ranging in cost from $400 to $1,200. They can also be expensive to operate and maintain. For do-it-yourselfers the best place to start is with one of several varieties of cartridge filters designed to remove particulate matter. These are less expensive and easier to install. Filter cartridges use fibers (figure C) to trap rust and sediment. Some of the more specialized ones incorporate activated carbon (shown in cutaway, figure D) to reduce odors as well as remove chlorine and bacteria. Some others also reduce lead (figure E). All cartridge filters require periodic changing of the cartridge. If the cartridge is neglected for too long, it will become saturated with particles and eventually begin leaching impurities back into the water. Check the manufacturer's recommendations for your model. The main varieties of cartridge-style filters are whole house, under sink, countertop (or faucet mounted) and icemaker filters. Installing a Whole-House Water Filter Materials: Whole-house water-filter kit
Pipe cutter or mini pipe cutter
Two adjustable wrenches or channel-lock pliers
Bucket
Teflon tape The whole-house filter is installed in the main water line and filters all of the water coming into your house. Its main function is reducing particulate rust and sediment, which is good not only for the quality of your drinking water but also for the entire plumbing system. Water enters the filter canister, flows through the filter cartridge and reenters the main water line clean and fresh. Replacement cartridges for whole-house filters range in cost from $5 to $25. Some people take the extra step of using a whole-house filter in combination with smaller under-sink or faucet-mounted filters. The smaller filters may catch some of the tiny particles that escape the whole-house filter. The cartridge filter consists of a housing, a canister and a cartridge (figure F). Most models come with mounting templates and all of the mounting hardware needed for the installation. Install a whole-house filter on the main water-supply line before the point where the main line enters the water heater. (Otherwise you'd need two filters: one for the hot-water line and one for the cold.) The main water line is usually found in a basement, crawlspace or garage. Installation involves cutting out a small section of the water line, then using the mounting hardware to secure the filter in place of the removed section of pipe. Most filters come with compression fittings for installation so no soldering is necessary. Compression fittings are strong and reliable and can be installed with just a pair of wrenches. They consist of three parts: the fitting body, the brass ring, or "ferrule," and the compression nut. The ferrule has beveled edges, and as the nut and fitting body thread together, they compress the ferrule around the pipe to form a watertight seal. - First, turn off the water supply at your main water-supply shutoff (figure G). Next, from the lowest point in your home, open a faucet to release pressure and drain most of the water from your system.
- Once you've selected the location for your filter, use the template provided with the kit to mark the pipe for exact placement. Remember that you'll need to change the cartridge periodically, and select a location with enough clearance beneath the filter tank to allow easy removal and reattachment.
- Use a pipe cutter to make two cuts, and remove the marked section of pipe. Use the twist handle to tighten the cutter onto the pipe so the blade lines up with your mark, then rotate the cutter around the pipe as you continue twisting the handle (figure H). Keep rotating the cutter around the pipe until it cuts all the way through. This may take a minute or so. (Have a bucket handy to catch any excess water when the pipe is cut--especially if you're standing directly underneath.) Once you've cut out the section, use the reamer blade on the cutter to remove any burrs from inside the freshly cut pipe.
Tip: If you're installing the filter in a tight space, use a mini-cutter. It works the same way as an ordinary pipe cutter but has a smaller body and handle for easier use in narrow spaces. - Place a compression nut, small end first, on one of the cut pipe ends. Slide on the ferrule (figure I). Repeat the same steps on the other side.
- Thread a brass fitting onto the "in" and the "out" ports of the filter housing. Install them according to manufacturer's recommendations. (In our example, the red seal inserts into the port.) (figure J) Use Teflon tape to ensure a good seal between the fitting and the filter port. Tighten the fittings onto the filter until they're snug, but don't over-tighten.
Important: Install the filter so that the flow of water enters the "in" port and exits through the "out" port. The filter won't function properly if installed backward. (The "in" port should be on the end closer to the water meter; the "out" should point toward the water heater.) - Position the filter on the water line, and let it hang temporarily between the two ferrules (figure K).
- Hand-tighten the compression nuts onto the fitting bodies. Keeping the filter straight and upright, tighten the fittings, using two wrenches (figure L).
- The filter kit comes with a special handle (figure M) used to turn the inlet valve on top to various positions--"off," "bypass" and "filter." With the filter properly installed, turn the valve to the off position. Slowly turn the water back on at the main shutoff valve, and check the filter for leaks.
- Use the handle to turn the valve from "off" to the "filter" position. The tank should fill with water and the unit begin filtering. Check again for leaks. If you detect leaks at the compression fittings or the filter housing, tighten until the dripping stops.
Important: Though it's uncommon in newer homes, some houses use the water pipes as a ground for the electrical system. If this is the case in your home, you must install a jumper wire at the filter (provided with most kits) so the electrical ground is not interrupted by the placement of the filter. Changing the Filter Cartridge You'll need to change the cartridge at intervals recommended by the manufacturer. In the case of the whole-house filter, the handle used to turn the inlet valve doubles as a tool to remove the filter tank when it's time to change filters. - Turn the valve handle to the "off" position.
- Use the handle to loosen and remove the tank from the housing (figure N). Have a bucket handy to catch any water.
- Pour the water from the tank and discard the old cartridge. Wipe the inside of the tank with a clean cloth.
- Insert a new cartridge and reattach the tank to the housing. Return the valve to the "filter" position.
- Open one of your faucets slowly, and allow the water to run for a few seconds to allow trapped air to escape.
Installing an Under-Sink Water Filter If you're mainly interested in filtering your drinking water, you may prefer to install the type of filter that fits under your kitchen sink. Such a filter installs in your cold-water supply line, and you can connect it to your existing faucet or install a separate faucet for filtered water (figure O). One advantage of a second faucet is that you'll only use filtered water when you need it, so your filter cartridge will last longer. A disadvantage is that you'll probably have to give up your sprayer or soap dispenser to make room for the second faucet. In our example, we connect the filter to the existing faucet. Materials: Under-sink filter kit
Adjustable wrenches
Basin wrench
Screwdriver
Teflon tape
Optional: flexible stainless-steel supply lines (flex lines) - Turn off the water at the cold-water shutoff valve underneath the sink.
- Disconnect the water line from the shutoff valve by loosening the nut and removing the tubing from the valve fitting (figure P). Use a basin wrench to loosen the nut holding the tubing on the faucet stem (figure Q). Remove the tubing.
- Position your filter unit on the cabinet wall closest to the cold water line. Mark your location through the holes in the mounting bracket (figure R). At the marks, drive a couple of screws about halfway. The screws will be tightened completely after the filter is hung in place. Important: Leave enough clearance below the filter so you'll be able to remove the canister and change cartridges easily.
Tip: With the location marked, you're ready to make the plumbing connections. When connecting the filter, consider using flexible stainless-steel supply lines, or "flex lines," instead of the plastic tubing included in most kits. Flex lines thread onto the brass fittings and come in various lengths to match the job. They're much sturdier than plastic tubing and are available at most home centers. - Thread the brass fittings that come with the kit into each side of the filter cap. For a more reliable seal, use Teflon tape. Tighten the fittings with an adjustable wrench, but don't over-tighten (figure S).
- Thread one flex line onto the fitting marked "in" and another onto the one marked "out" (figure T).
- Hang the assembled filter unit on the wall and tighten the mounting screws until the unit is secure.
- Connect the flex line that leads from the "in" fitting to the shutoff valve (figure U).
- Connect the flex line that leads from the "out" fitting to the threaded faucet stem.
- Snug the plumbing connections.
- Slowly turn the water supply back on.
- Release any trapped air with the pressure-relief button (figure V). Check for leaks.
Note: Make sure to replace the cartridge at recommended intervals, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Installing an Icemaker FilterMaterials: Refrigerator/icemaker filter kit
Pipe cutter or knife
Bucket
Another source of drinking water in your home is the refrigerator water dispenser and icemaker. If you're not using a whole-house filter, a refrigerator/icemaker filter is a good idea. These are easy to install; the most difficult part of the job is moving the refrigerator. - Turn off the water supply. In most cases you'll find a shutoff valve behind the refrigerator (figure W).
- Find a convenient place in the supply-line tubing and cut it. If the line is plastic, all you'll need is a knife. If it's copper, use a pipe cutter. File any rough edges.
- Insert the supply side of the tubing into the end of the filter unit. Make sure the directional arrow on the filter matches the flow of water (figure X). Most of these filters have self-sealing fittings, so all you need to do is insert the tubing all the way in, pushing firmly until it bottoms out.
- Place the filter in a bucket and slowly turn the water on at the shutoff valve. Because this type of filter may contain carbon to help reduce odors, some carbon dust will probably flow out of the filter at first. Allow water to run through the filter. Once the water runs clear, turn off the water.
- Insert the end of the other portion of the supply line into the "out" end of the filter. Once both fittings are secured, turn the water back on and check for leaks.
Tip: If the supply line from your icemaker originates under the sink, you may want to install the icemaker filter there. That way you won't need to move your refrigerator each time you change the filter. Installing a Faucet-Mounted Water Filter The easiest filter to install is the faucet-mounted type. If you have a threaded faucet spout, you can install one in seconds and without using any tools. Just unscrew the aerator tip on the spout and attach the filter (figure Y). Like the others, this filter's cartridges should be replaced periodically as directed by the manufacturer's instructions. One drawback to this kind of filter is that it may put pressure on the O-rings and gaskets inside your faucet and could shorten the faucet's life. Although some cartridge filters are designed to remove pollutants, filters' primary function is removing particulate matter and improving the taste of your water. If you're worried about chemicals or contaminants in your water, request a copy of the "Municipal Drinking Water Contaminant Analysis Report" from your utility company. If you're on well water, contact your health department and ask for a list of contaminants that have been identified in your area. Your health department can also give you a list of state-certified testing laboratories if you wish to have your water independently tested. Another source of information is the Environmental Protection Agency, which has established safe-level guidelines for various contaminants. Consumer-information groups such as the National Sanitation Foundation and the Water Quality Association can also provide some information and advice. Next: Installing Granite Countertop and Tile Backsplash
RESOURCES :
Environmental Protection Agency Information
EPA's Mold Guide
Indoor Air Quality Information Hotline: 800-438-4318
Safe Drinking Water Hotline: 800-426-4791
U. S. Environmental Protection Agency (Headquarters)
Washington, DC 20460
Phone: 202-260-2090
Website: www.epa.gov
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Water Filters |
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