| Replacing Faucets |
From "Plumbing"
episode DPB-104 |
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If you've been considering upgrading your faucet to one with a more modern or attractive design, it's a relatively easy undertaking. The task can usually be completed in about an hour. Master plumber Ed Del Grande explains the basic steps involved in replacing kitchen and bathroom faucets and provides some tips to make the jobs easier. Replacing a Kitchen Faucet Materials:
New faucet assembly
Basin wrench
Adjustable wrenches
Slip-joint pliers
The first step is examining your kitchen sink to determine what type of faucet it will accept. The typical kitchen sink has four holes (figure A) to accommodate the faucet assembly -- three for the faucet and one for the sprayer. Some faucets have extra holes for optional accessories such as soap dispensers, filtered water, instant hot water, etc. Kitchen faucets are available in three basic designs: those with separate handles for hot and cold water (figure B), those with a single handle that regulates both the flow and temperature of the water (figure C) and those with a single handle and a sprayer built into the spout (figure D). Usually the packaging on new faucet assemblies will refer to a "three-hole installation" or a "one-hole installation." The three-hole types have three separate stems extending from the bottom of the assembly (figure B, above) -- one for hot water, one for cold and a center connection for the sprayer. To install this faucet, your sink should have a separate hole for each stem and a fourth for the sprayer itself. A variation on this type has the hot water, cold water and sprayer connections all entering through the same hole. In this case, the second and third holes are used for mounting bolts (figure E) that attach the assembly to the sink. The fourth hole accommodates the sprayer attachment. One-hole installation is for faucets that combine the sprayer and spout. The hot and cold water and sprayer connections all come through a single hole. Sinks may be specially ordered with only a single hole for this faucet type, but it's also possible to install one on a typical four-hole sink. Faucet manufacturers generally provide a decorative escutcheon plate that covers three of the holes (figure F ). With this type, since you won't need the fourth hole for the sprayer, you may opt to buy a cover for the extra hole or to use it for a separate accessory such as a soap dispenser. Our project involves replacing a two-handled faucet with a single-handled type. - Before beginning, turn off the water at the shutoff valves under the sink (figure G). Open the faucet to drain any excess water.
- Use a small adjustable wrench to disconnect the hot- and cold-water supply lines from the shutoff valves (figure H).
- Using a basin wrench, reach up behind the faucet, and unscrew the coupling nuts connecting the supply tubes to the faucet (figure I).
- Use the basin wrench to remove the mounting nuts holding the faucet in place (figure J).
- With the mounting nuts disconnected, lift out the old faucet, and use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the sprayer hose from the assembly (figure K). Lift out the sprayer hose. After the faucet is removed, use a scouring pad to clean the sink surface thoroughly. If the sprayer-hose escutcheon cap is in good shape, you may want to leave it on. If not, replace it with the one included with the new faucet.
Tip: You're now ready to connect the new faucet's fittings with the water-supply lines. The manufacturer's instructions may direct you to set the new faucet assembly in place, then crawl back under the sink to make the new connections. Save yourself from struggling in cramped quarters by making all the connections you can before setting the new assembly in place. Then feed the connected lines down through the hole in the sink. With the attachments at the base of the faucet assembly already in place, the only work you'll need to do under the sink is to connect the supply lines to the shutoff valves. - Slip the new sprayer hose down through the sprayer hole, and feed it up through the center faucet hole. Use an adjustable wrench to connect the hose to the sprayer nipple (figure L).
- The hot and cold supply tubes on the faucet may vary in length, depending on the brand. You may want to attach flexible connectors to adapt the faucet for a particular installation. If so, attach them to the fittings on the faucet's supply tubes. Use two wrenches to tighten each connection -- one to hold the faucet-fitting stationary and one to turn and tighten the female fitting on the flexible connector (figure M). This two-wrench technique will help prevent twisting and damaging the faucet's copper supply lines. (Note: Depending on the size of the hole, you may have a tight fit and thus be able to attach only one flexible connector before seating the faucet assembly. In that case, you may need to wait and attach one of them from underneath the sink once the faucet's in place.)
- Insert and feed the connectors and supply lines into the center hole, and, making sure that the faucet's gasket lines up correctly, seat the faucet (figure N).
- From under the sink, install a washer and nut--or a plastic nut-washer combo as pictured (figure O) -- to the end bolts that will hold the faucet in place. Tighten the nuts by hand, then tighten with a basin wrench.
- Attach the second flexible connector if you haven't already (figure P), and attach the male ends of the connectors to the shutoff valves (figure Q). Tighten the connections with an adjustable wrench. Turn the water on at the shutoff valves, and turn on the faucet to check whether it's working properly.
Replacing a Bathroom Faucet Materials:
New faucet assembly
Basin wrench
Adjustable wrenches
Slip-joint pliers
Plumber's putty
Installing a bathroom-sink or lavatory faucet is similar to changing a kitchen faucet. The main difference is that the assembly for a lavatory-sink faucet includes a pop-up assembly that allows the user to open and close the drain. Standard bathroom faucets come in two types: 4" center spread and 8" center spread. The 4" type fits the most common style of bathroom sink -- one with outer holes whose centers are 4" apart (figure R). The 8" variety consists of three separate components (figure S) and fits a sink with outer holes 8" apart. If you're using the 4" type, you have the option of installing a one-handle or two-handle design. Many people find the single-handle type more convenient and easy to operate. For our project we'll replace an older two-handle faucet with a single-handle one. - Turn off the water at the shutoff valves underneath the sink.
- Loosen the collar nuts on the curved section of the drain pipe called the P-trap. Place a bucket underneath to catch any excess water, then remove the P-trap (figure T).
- Use slip-joint pliers to loosen the nut holding the pop-up assembly in place under the sink.
- From overhead, unscrew the pop-up flange to free the assembly underneath the sink (figure U).
- With the pop-up assembly out of the way, use a wrench to loosen and remove the fittings that join the old faucet's supply lines to the shutoff valves.
- Using a basin wrench, reach behind the sink bowl and loosen and remove the supply tubes and the mounting nuts holding the faucet in place. Lift the old faucet off the sink. Use a rag or an abrasive pad to clean any residue left from underneath the old faucet.
- You may want to use flexible connectors to replace the rigid tubes connecting the faucet to the shutoff valves. If so, connect them to the new faucet. Don't over-tighten.
- Drop the new faucet in place, feeding the supply lines through the holes in the sink and making sure that the faucet's gasket seats properly.
- Secure the faucet from underneath the sink with mounting nuts.
- Connect the bottoms of the flexible connectors to the hot- and cold-water shutoffs. Tighten all connections.
- With the faucet in place, begin installing the pop-up assembly. Push the pop-up rod down through the faucet body, and attach the flat bar (figure V).
- Add a little plumber's putty to the bottom of the new flange, and hold the tailpiece so that the whole assembly protrudes up through the drain hole in the sink. Spin the ring to position it with the tailpiece underneath the sink.
- Working underneath the sink, tighten the nut on top of the tailpiece to secure the pop-up housing in place.
- Hook the pop-up lever onto the flat bar and secure it to the pop-up housing ( figure W).
- From overhead, drop the stopper into the drain hole. Work the pop-up rod to make sure the stopper works properly.
- Replace the P-trap and tighten the collar nuts.
- Turn on the water supply and check for leaks.
Key Points Although changing a faucet involves a fair number of steps, performing the task successfully comes down to a good understanding of the following: - Knowing how to disconnect the hot- and cold-water supply lines at the shutoff valves
- Mastering the use of a basin wrench to reach behind the sink and remove and replace the nuts holding the faucet in place
- Working smart by making some of the connections before seating the assembly to minimize working in cramped quarters
- Using high-quality flexible supply lines to connect the new faucet
- For a lavatory sink, knowing how to disassemble the P-trap and install a new pop-up assembly.
RESOURCES :
Plumbing for Dummies
Model: 0764551744
Author: Gene and Katie Hamilton
1999; Out of Print
IDG Books Worldwide, Inc. (An International Data Group Company)
Foster City, CA 94404
theplumber.com
Do-It-Yourself Plumbing
Model: 0060101229
Author: Max Alth
Sterling Publishing, 1987
Out of Print
Installing and Repairing Plumbing Fixtures
Model: 1561580759
Author: Peter Hemp
1994
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Complete Book of Kitchen and Bathroom Renovation
Time Life Books
Website: www.timelife.com
Delta Faucet Information
To find the nearest Delta Faucet distributor, click here.
Delta Faucet Company
Website: www.deltafaucet.com
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Replacing Faucets |
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