| Faucet Repair |
From "Plumbing"
episode DPB-101 |
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Though plumbing problems may seem complicated, many -- such as the most common one, the leaky faucet -- are fairly simple to fix if approached methodically. Master plumber Ed Del Grande takes some of the mystery out of faucet repair by explaining how to identify types of faucets, purchase the proper replacement parts and repair the most common kinds of drips and leaks. Faucets come in four basic types: compression, cartridge, ball and disc-type. It's good to be familiar with each, as it's not unusual for a home to have more than one variety. Compression faucets have separate handles for controlling hot and cold water. Inside each handle is a brass stem assembly with a rubber washer held on the end by a screw (figure A). As the handle turns, the rubber washer is compressed over an opening, or seat, within the faucet body, shutting off the flow of water -- much as you use your thumb to stop the flow of water from a garden hose. Compression faucets all work on the same principle, though stem assemblies vary from one manufacturer to another (figure B). When replacing a stem assembly, take the old one to the home-improvement center with you to make sure you buy a suitable replacement. Cartridge faucets are so named because inside their handle is a movable brass or plastic cartridge. The cartridge moves up and down so that its holes line up with the water supply, permitting water to flow through. Cartridge faucets may be single- or double-handled. They're easy to fix because all that's generally required is dropping in a new cartridge. As with compression stems, various manufacturers' cartridges vary (figure C). Take the old one with you when shopping for a replacement. Ball-type faucets have a single handle that regulates the flow of water and adjusts the water temperature. Inside the handle is a hollow plastic or stainless-steel ball (figure D). As you move the handle, hot and cold water mix as they flow through the ball. Minor adjustments to the handle allow you to regulate the temperature. Ball-type faucets tend to be more leak-prone than other types because they contain more parts. Disc faucets usually have one handle. A cylinder housed inside the faucet body contains two ceramic or plastic discs (figure E). As the handle is turned, the discs glide over each other, allowing their holes to line up and adjust the flow of water. Sometimes a leak in a disc faucet can be stopped by cleaning or replacing worn O-rings. When this type of faucet malfunctions, however, it's usually best to replace the whole cylinder. Cartridge, ball and disc-type faucets are often called washerless because they don't use rubber washers -- the part of the assembly that receives the most wear. The term is somewhat misleading, however, as those types of faucets still contain some form of rubber seal or O-ring that can go bad. In general, though, washerless types require fewer repairs. Tip: - When repairing a faucet, close the sink's stopper, and cover it with a rag to prevent small parts from falling into the drain.
Materials:
Faucet-repair kit (for compression or ball-types)
Replacement cartridge (for cartridge or disc type, if needed)
Phillips-head screwdriver
Flat-head screwdriver
Slip-joint pliers
Allen wrench
Utility knife
Heat-proof plumber's grease
Rags
Seat wrench (for compression-type faucet)
Needle-nose pliers (for cartridge-type faucet)
Repairing a Compression Faucet If a compression-type faucet continues to drip after both handles are turned to the off position, remove both handles to inspect for damage to the stem assemblies. - Turn the water shut-off valves under the sink to the off position, then turn the faucet handles to the on position to drain any remaining water.
- If there is a decorative cap on top of the handle, carefully pop it off with a utility knife (figure F) to expose the screw holding the handle in place. Remove the screw with a Phillips-head screwdriver, and pull off the handle to expose the stem assembly. (You may need to pry the handle off gently with a screwdriver. If so, pad the screwdriver with a rag to avoid damaging the faucet.) With the handle out of the way, use slip-joint pliers to remove the retaining nut that holds the stem in place (figure G).
- Inspect the stem assembly for damage. Check the rubber washer on the end. If it looks OK, unscrew the packing nut to see whether there is damage to the O-rings inside (figure H). If the washer is damaged, remove the screw, and replace the old washer with a new one. If an O-ring is bad, cut it off with a utility knife, coat a new one with heat-proof grease, and slide the new O-ring into place on the stem, using a flat-head screwdriver as a guide (figure I). An alternative to replacing washers and rings is to replace the entire stem assembly. If you decide to take this course, it's best to replace the stems on both the hot- and cold-water sides. Note that because the hot- and cold-water handles often turn in opposite directions, the hot and cold stem assemblies may be different. Make sure to buy the right parts. Some are color-coded to indicate hot or cold.
- If both the washer and O-rings look good, use your finger to check for rough spots around the valve seat inside the faucet (figure J). If the seat is damaged, the faucet may not make a watertight seal even with new washers. Use a specially made seat-wrench to remove damaged seats, and replace them (figure K).
- Once repairs are complete, reassemble the faucet: drop in the repaired (or new) stem assembly, and tighten the retaining nut with slip-joint pliers. Replace the handles, and secure them with their screws. Replace the decorative cap.
- Turn the water supply back on, and check both hot- and cold-water sides to make sure they both work properly and without drips.
Repairing a Cartridge-Type Faucet This is the simplest type faucet to repair because it involves replacing only one part: the cartridge. The best technique is to remove the damaged cartridge and take it to the home-improvement center to find a replacement. Tip: - Check to see whether a solid-brass replacement cartridge is available. Brass cartridges far outlast plastic.
- After turning off the water under the sink, remove the old cartridge. First remove the decorative cap to expose the screw holding the handle in place (figure L). Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screw, then remove the handle and decorative sleeve.
- With the handle out of the way, use needle-nose pliers to remove the retaining clip (figure M) holding the cartridge in position. Carefully slide out the old cartridge.
- Inspect the old cartridge. If it has more damage than a broken O-ring, you'll need to replace it.
- Drop in the new cartridge and push it firmly into place.
- Carefully replace the retaining clip and sleeve.
- Reattach the handle and secure it with the screw.
- Check the flow of water to make sure that the hot- and cold-water adjustments work properly. If hot water flows out when the handle is turned to cold, remove the handle and rotate the cartridge 180 degrees. Reattach the handle and check your results.
- If everything works properly, replace the decorative cap, and you're done.
Repairing a Ball-Type Faucet The ball-type faucet is prone to leaks in two places: the spout and at the faucet body. The repair kit for the ball-type contains the parts necessary to stop a leak from either source. (The ball mechanisms are usually sold separately, but these are seldom the source of the leak.) - The handle of the ball-type faucet rests on a dome-shaped body and is attached by a set-screw. Use an Allen wrench to loosen the set-screw enough to lift off the handle (figure N).
- If the faucet is leaking from the base of the spout, use a spanner wrench (included in the ball-faucet repair kit) to tighten the locking collar by turning in a clockwise direction (figure O). If the leak stops, no further repair is required. Just reattach the handle.
- If the leak continues or is coming from the end of the spout, you'll need to disassemble the faucet. First, close the water-shutoff valves under the sink.
- Use slip-joint pliers to twist off the domed cap (figure P). You may want to wrap the jaws of the pliers to avoid marring the chrome finish.
- Lift out the plastic cam and cam washer to expose the rotating ball. Take out the ball and inspect it for signs of wear.
- Inside the faucet are two rubber valve seats that form a watertight seal against the rotating ball. Remove the valve seats by snaring them with a screwdriver. Use caution: there's a small spring behind each valve seat.
- If the valve seats appear worn, replace them by lining up new springs and seats on the end of a screwdriver (figure Q) and carefully dropping them into place. Use your finger to press them in firmly. New valve seats should stop any leaks coming from the end of the spout.
- If the leak originates from the base of the faucet, pull off the spout, and inspect the O-rings (figure R). If they appear worn, pry them loose with the hooked end of the spanner wrench. Coat new O-rings with heat-proof plumbers grease, and pop them into place with the spanner wrench.
- Reassemble the faucet by putting the parts back in this order: spout, ball, plastic cam and cam washer, and domed cap. Tighten the collar ring with the spanner wrench, and replace the handle.
- Turn the water on at the shutoff and check for leaks.
Repairing a Disc Faucet The disc type is generally single-handled and is characterized a wide cylinder inside the faucet body. Disc faucets tend to be relatively maintenance-free. When they do leak, the caused is usually a worn or dirty seal or a crack in a ceramic disc. If the leak is caused by a faulty neoprene seal, cleaning or replacing it may solve the problem. If the disc is bad, the best remedy is to replace the cylinder. - After turning off the water at the shutoff, locate the set-screw, and loosen it with an Allen wrench to remove the handle.
- Under the handle is a decorative escutcheon cap that may screw or pop off. With the cap out of the way, remove the cylinder mounting screws and lift out the cylinder (figure S).
- Remove the neoprene seals (figure T) and check them for debris, damage or wear. If the disc below the seal is dirty, try cleaning it with an abrasive kitchen pad, then rinse and replace it. If the seals are damaged, replace them. This may be all that's required to fix the problem. Reassemble the faucet and check for leaks. Important: Before turning on the shutoff valve to check for leaks, first turn the faucet to the on position, then very slowly turn on the water at the shutoff valve so any trapped air escapes gradually. Otherwise a pocket of air might be forced under great pressure into the cylinder and could crack the discs.
- If the faucet still leaks after cleaning or replacing the seals, one of the discs is probably damaged. You'll need to repeat steps 1 and 2 in preparation for replacing the cylinder.
Tip: - It's often difficult to see damage to ceramic discs inside the cylinder of a disc-type faucet. Placing a drop of food coloring inside the cylinder openings may reveal hairline cracks in the disc that aren't otherwise visible.
- After turning the water off and removing the escutcheon cap and mounting screws, carefully lift the old cylinder out of the faucet body and drop in the replacement (figure U).
- Reassemble the faucet: tighten down the mounting screws, replace the escutcheon cap, and reinstall the handle.
- Turn the faucet to the on position, and slowly turn on the water supply at the shutoff valve to check for leaks.
RESOURCES :
theplumber.com
Do-It-Yourself Plumbing
Model: 0060101229
Author: Max Alth
Sterling Publishing, 1987
Out of Print
Installing and Repairing Plumbing Fixtures
Model: 1561580759
Author: Peter Hemp
1994
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
The Complete Book of Kitchen and Bathroom Renovation
Time Life Books
Website: www.timelife.com
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Faucet Repair |
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