| Sport Climbing and Rock-Climbing Tips |
From "Family Outdoors"
episode FAO-202 |
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Sport Climbing Sport climbing is a useful variation on the sport of rock climbing since it can serve as a bridge between beginner styles such as indoor climbing and more advanced styles such as traditional climbing.
In sport climbing, permanent bolts have been place securely into outdoor rock faces along the route of the climb. In this way, outdoor climbers can climb with much of the same security as indoor climbers. The climber simply attaches runners and ropes to existing protection as he or she moves along the course of the climb (figure A).
With sport climbing, intermediate climbers can get the experience of leading and climbing real rock in the traditional style, but without needing to know how to place and secure protection. Without the worry of anchoring protection, sport climbing allows climbers to concentrate on the essence of climbing -- refining moves, balance and technique (figure B).
General Climbing Tips - For families and individuals who are new to climbing and want to begin learning about it right away, consider installing a training board to a sturdy wall in your home. These allow novice and experienced climbers to work on developing and strengthening some of the grips and handholds required in real climbing (figure C).
- Important: Follow instructions and safety precautions that come with your training board to avoid injury such as muscle pulls and tendinitis.
- Stretches are important for climbing, as with most sports that require strenuous activity. Deep knee-bends and toe-pushes are helpful for your legs. But remember: Climbing works many muscle groups, some of which you may not be accustomed to using. There's almost no getting around a certain amount of muscle soreness after a rigorous climb. It's important to be in good general physical condition before you climb. Running and bicycling are good activities to help you build endurance in preparation for a climb.
- When you climb, concentrate on honing your balance and technique. Work on staying close to the wall (figure D). In that way, you are using your strength to move up the wall, rather than to support your weight as you hang on.
- Let your legs do the heavy work of climbing, while you use your hands and arms mostly for balance and stability.
- Work on different ways of using your feet to grip onto the rock face. You can place your toes onto a hold or ledge, or you can use the inside or outside edge of your foot. Using the inside edge of your foot to grip onto a nearly flat rock-face -- using friction alone (figure E) -- is a technique known as smearing.
- Try to keep your arms straight as much of the time as possible. Their strength will last a lot longer that way.
- When you're a beginner, you'll climb mostly by making single, discrete moves, then pausing while you figure out your next move or hold. As you become more advanced, you can work on developing a series of moves that you use in fairly quick succession, flowing smoothly from one to the next. The more you practice, the more you'll build confidence. After a while, you'll be able to look at a rock from the ground and plan your moves in advance. Developing that level of skill helps you climb in a way that expends less energy, making for a more enjoyable climb.
- To plan your climbing trips, you might want to seek the advice of individuals who work at local climbing shops. They should be knowledgeable about climbs in your area for climbers at different skill levels. You can also find a number of climbing guidebooks that list and describe specific climbs in a region, show locations, map out routes and rank individual climbs for skill-level and enjoyability. Web sites of local, regional and national climbing societies are another valuable resource.
- Remember that rock climbing is a serious sport. If not done properly, it can easily become dangerous. It requires discipline and focus from those who wish to participate. For beginners, it's always advisable to get some qualified instruction at the outset. Always be sure that you use the proper safety equipment and, if you must err, always err on the side of safety.
RESOURCES :
REI (Recreational Equipment Inc.)
A comprehensive site with equipment and clothing for camping, hiking, climbing, cycling, paddling, fly fishing, rock climbing, canoeing, kayaking and other outdoor activities.
REI
Sumner, WA 98352-0001
Website: www.rei.com
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Rock Climbing
Model: 0028631145
Author: Joe Glickman and Stefani Ellen Jackenthal
Macmillan / Alpha Books
Website: www.macmillan.com
Knots & Ropes for Climbers
Model: 0811728714
Author: Duane Raleigh and Mike Clelland
Stackpole Books
Website: www.stackpolebooks.com
Rock Climbing : A Trailside Guide (Trailside Guide Series)
Model: 039331653X
Author: Don Mellor, Ron Hildebrand
W. W. Norton & Company
How to Rock Climb! (How to Rock Climb Series)
Model: 1575401142
Author: John Long
Chockstone Press
Better Bouldering
Model: 1575400871
Author: John Sherman
Chockstone Press
Boulderdash magazine online
The online version of Boulderdash: The Appalachian Climbing Quarterly
Web site: www.boulderdashmag.com
Climbing magazine online
The online version of Climbing magazine
Web site: www.climbing.com
Rock and Ice magazine online
The online version of Rock and Ice, a magazine for climbers.
Web site: www.rockandice.com
Tying a figure-8 for rock climbing
Check the following direct links for information on how to tie a figure-8 knot, one of the most important knots for rock climbing.
Web site: www.apocalypse.org/pub/u/antony/tutorial/intro.htm
-or-
Web site: www.thechipster.com/rockclmb.htm
rockclimbing.com
Informational web site on rock climbing.
Web site: www.rockclimbing.com
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