| Rock-Climbing Techniques: Traditional Climbing |
From "Family Outdoors"
episode FAO-202 |
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There are several distinct styles of climbing including traditional climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and indoor climbing. Traditional or "trad" climbing is a fairly advanced form that's best learned through lessons with a qualified instructor -- perhaps beginning with instruction on an indoor climbing wall. This segment gives just a taste of what traditional climbing is all about.
In traditional climbing, the leader places his own protection as he moves up the rock. "Protection," in this case, means anchoring mechanisms that hold on to the rock, providing a place to secure ropes. These may be in the form of small metal wedges and hexes that fit into cracks and crevices in the rock (figure A). An alternative is a cam that uses a mechanical camming action to wedge itself securely between rocks (figure B).
In traditional climbing, the climber actually climbs above the protection. He places the protection in a crack, secures a rope, then climbs on above the protection. In the event of a fall, the climber may fall twice as far as the distance from the last secured protection. For this reason, it's important that the climber is using the right kind of rope -- one with the proper strength and amount of elasticity. The stretching action in a dynamic rope helps the climber to come to a softer stop in the event of a fall.
It's critical that each piece of protection -- or stopper -- is secured and tested as it's placed. Once the wedge or cam is placed, the climber tests it by pulling it in the direction the rope would pull in the event of a fall (figure C).
A short loop of webbing, known as a runner, is attached to each stopper (figure D). The runner protects the climbing rope by allowing it to hang clear of sharp edges.
As with other forms of climbing, a belayer feeds rope from below as the climber ascends (figure E). The leading and belaying continues until the leader reaches the top of the rock or the end of the first pitch .
A pitch is a distinct section of a climb. The climb in our demonstration was a single-pitch climb. More difficult climbs might involve multiple pitches.
Once the leader reaches his destination, he secures himself to the rock and sets up a belay device (figure F). Now it's the leader's turn to belay while his partner (the former belayer) ascends (figure G).
Following the leader is termed cleaning since it's the follower's job to remove the protection (placed there by the leader ) as he ascends, being belayed from above.
Once both climbers are at their final destination (figure H), they begin to prepare for descent. For some simple climbs, descent simply involves carefully backing down the side of the rock. In more advanced climbs, rappelling down is required.
The key in rappelling is to find a secure place to anchor the rappelling rope. Some climbs have a permanent pin at the top, for others climbers may use a tree or the horn of a rock. Once the anchor is set securely (" bombproof," in climber lingo), the climbing rope is run through the anchor so that the anchor-point is in the middle of the rope. With the rope doubled in this way, the rope can be pulled down once the climbers reach bottom. Once the rope and anchor are set, the climbers begin to rappel down (figure I). - Tip: The proper technique for rappelling is slow and steady -- simply walking down the rock backward, letting out the rope slowly as you go. Those fancy, fast rappelling descents (a familiar sight in action movies and TV shows) are not really applicable in serious rock climbing. They are dangerous and a quick way to wear out your climbing ropes and give yourself nasty rope burns.
RESOURCES :
REI (Recreational Equipment Inc.)
A comprehensive site with equipment and clothing for camping, hiking, climbing, cycling, paddling, fly fishing, rock climbing, canoeing, kayaking and other outdoor activities.
REI
Sumner, WA 98352-0001
Website: www.rei.com
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Rock Climbing
Model: 0028631145
Author: Joe Glickman and Stefani Ellen Jackenthal
Macmillan / Alpha Books
Website: www.macmillan.com
Knots & Ropes for Climbers
Model: 0811728714
Author: Duane Raleigh and Mike Clelland
Stackpole Books
Website: www.stackpolebooks.com
Rock Climbing : A Trailside Guide (Trailside Guide Series)
Model: 039331653X
Author: Don Mellor, Ron Hildebrand
W. W. Norton & Company
How to Rock Climb! (How to Rock Climb Series)
Model: 1575401142
Author: John Long
Chockstone Press
Better Bouldering
Model: 1575400871
Author: John Sherman
Chockstone Press
Boulderdash magazine online
The online version of Boulderdash: The Appalachian Climbing Quarterly
Web site: www.boulderdashmag.com
Climbing magazine online
The online version of Climbing magazine
Web site: www.climbing.com
Rock and Ice magazine online
The online version of Rock and Ice, a magazine for climbers.
Web site: www.rockandice.com
Tying a figure-8 for rock climbing
Check the following direct links for information on how to tie a figure-8 knot, one of the most important knots for rock climbing.
Web site: www.apocalypse.org/pub/u/antony/tutorial/intro.htm
-or-
Web site: www.thechipster.com/rockclmb.htm
rockclimbing.com
Informational web site on rock climbing.
Web site: www.rockclimbing.com
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