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  • Rock-Climbing Equipment
  • From "Family Outdoors"
    episode FAO-202
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    Sean Gavin, rock-climbing specialist with REI, describes some of the basic equipment used in rock climbing.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

    Having the right equipment won't make you a great climber, but it will help keep you safe. There is some equipment that is specific to one particular style of climbing or another, and some that is geared toward experienced climbers, but there are a few items that nearly all climbers need. Sean Gavin of REI goes over some of those items with Family Outdoors host John Nickel.


    Climbing shoes are among the most basic elements of equipment. High-quality climbing shoes are available at prices starting around $100. There are some differences between beginner shoes and those designed for advanced climbers. Shoes for beginning climbers (figure A) are usually mores stiff, providing greater foot support. Advanced styles tend to be more flexible (figure B), allowing the climber to make use of small cracks and ledges while climbing.


    A climbing harness is an essential piece of safety gear. It has a waist-belt that should fit securely at the top of the hipbones, and leg loops that support the upper legs. The proper degree of tightness in the leg loops should allow two fingers two be inserted under the loop. The waist-belt should fit snugly, just like a normal belt. Harnesses made for children (figure C) also have straps that come over the tops of the shoulders.


    Climbing ropes are very different from familiar, ordiary rope. These high-tech ropes ( figure D) are made from specialized materials to ensure their strength and provide them with a specific degree of elasticity or stretching capability. Most climbing ropes are brightly colored for high visibility. Some are chemically treated to make them water-resistant or less susceptible to freezing. Some feature two different color patterns, allowing the climber to find the midpoint of the rope quickly. Backup or secondary ropes are recommended when the rope you're using is less than 10 millimeters in diameter. With ropes thicker than that, a backup is not typically used.There are two basic categories of climbing rope.

    • Static ropes do not stretch or give under weight or force. They are used primarily for rappelling.

    • Dynamic ropes have a considerable amount of stretching ability. Dynamic ropes are used for climbing situations and not for rappelling.

    Carabiners are small but important pieces of climbing equipment (figure E) as they form the "life link" between climber and rope. They come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors, but there are two basic styles: those with locks and those without.
    • The locking type has a screw-lock mechanism to ensure the rope stays in place. This type is used to connect the climber to the rope.

    • The nonlocking type typically has a swinging gate, allowing the rope to be inserted or removed quickly and easily. Some have an asymmetrical design, allowing greater distance for opening the gate.

    Belay devices are used by the belayer to protect the climber and allow a controlled fall in the event of an accident. They are a small device (figure F) through which the rope passes, and are designed in such a way that the belayer can "brake" the rope using just a small amount of pull with his braking hand.



    Helmets are a necessary part of climbing, just as they are with other sports such as mountain biking. They protect the climber's head in the event of a fall and also protect against rocks or other objects falling from above. It's important to use a helmet designed specifically for rock climbing (figure G), not one designed for another type of sport. Most climbing helmets are lightweight, ventilated and equipped with interior pads (figure H) that are adjusted by the use of exterior knobs allowing the fit of the helmet to be customized for individual climbers.
    • Safety precaution: Helmets do come in children's sizes. It's important to use a child's helmet for a child. Don't simply use an adult helment and attempt to adjust it to fit a child.



    Gloves are not used while climbing, but they are important when you're belaying. They allow for a more secure, comfortable grip on the rope and prevent the belayer's hands from getting rope-burned by friction (figure I).


    RESOURCES :
    REI (Recreational Equipment Inc.)
    A comprehensive site with equipment and clothing for camping, hiking, climbing, cycling, paddling, fly fishing, rock climbing, canoeing, kayaking and other outdoor activities.

    REI
    Sumner, WA 98352-0001
    Website: www.rei.com

    The Complete Idiot's Guide to Rock Climbing
    Model: 0028631145
    Author: Joe Glickman and Stefani Ellen Jackenthal
    Macmillan / Alpha Books
    Website: www.macmillan.com

    Knots & Ropes for Climbers
    Model: 0811728714
    Author: Duane Raleigh and Mike Clelland

    Stackpole Books
    Website: www.stackpolebooks.com

    Rock Climbing : A Trailside Guide (Trailside Guide Series)
    Model: 039331653X
    Author: Don Mellor, Ron Hildebrand

    W. W. Norton & Company

    How to Rock Climb! (How to Rock Climb Series)
    Model: 1575401142
    Author: John Long

    Chockstone Press

    Better Bouldering
    Model: 1575400871
    Author: John Sherman

    Chockstone Press

    Boulderdash magazine online
    The online version of Boulderdash: The Appalachian Climbing Quarterly
    Web site: www.boulderdashmag.com

    Climbing magazine online
    The online version of Climbing magazine Web site: www.climbing.com

    Rock and Ice magazine online
    The online version of Rock and Ice, a magazine for climbers. Web site: www.rockandice.com

    Tying a figure-8 for rock climbing

    Check the following direct links for information on how to tie a figure-8 knot, one of the most important knots for rock climbing.

    Web site: www.apocalypse.org/pub/u/antony/tutorial/intro.htm

    -or-

    Web site: www.thechipster.com/rockclmb.htm

    rockclimbing.com
    Informational web site on rock climbing.
    Web site: www.rockclimbing.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: