By Susan Khalje
DIY-Do It Yourself Network I am often asked to recommend fabrics for wedding gowns and satin is usually at the top of the list. But simply suggesting "satin" does not give the full picture, so I would like to discuss what to look for when choosing satin. First of all, "satin" refers to the weave of the fabric -- it does not tell anything about the fiber content. Fabrics always need to be described two ways: the fiber content (which usually comes first), then the weave. Therefore, "silk satin" refers to a 100 percent silk fabric created with a satin weave. Silk-faced-satin describes a fabric in which the fibers combine silk with something else (usually polyester or acetate), again in a satin weave. Acetate satin is 100 percent acetate, in a satin weave. Both pieces of information are needed in order to make an informed choice. Of course, price enters into the equation -- the least expensive are the acetate satins, the most expensive the silk satins, with polyester satins and silk-faced satins somewhere in-between. I avoid using or recommending acetate satin -- I do not like the fumes that it gives off when it is pressed, and I have found it can shrink. It is difficult to create unpuckered, flatly pressed seams, and if you are going to be putting your best efforts into a garment, you owe it to yourself to choose a fabric that will help you, not frustrate you. Moving up in price, there are some wonderful polyester satins that I often recommend. One advantage is that they are often 60 inches wide, which makes them ideal for long, full bridal skirts. They come in a variety of weights and sheens, but they are reasonably priced, they usually do not require a nap layout (though it is worth checking), and they are easy to sew and spot-clean. My only warning is that they can get awfully heavy -- a princess-seamed wedding gown, for example, with a long train and full skirt panels will be heavy; the inner structure of the gown must be up to the task of supporting it. The pure silk satins are the cream of the crop, and they are often imported from Italy or Japan. If you are choosing a pure silk satin, be sure to look at all the store has -- they will vary in sheen, color and hand. They can be a little scary to work with -- they are expensive, need to be cut on the nap and stains and marks can be tricky to remove. The biggest challenge of working with satin is to keep it unwrinkled and clean. Be sure to ask for the fabric to be put on a bolt at the fabric store -- once creased, internal fibers can be broken and may mar the surface of the fabric permanently. Do your best to keep the fabric from getting wrinkled in the first place, by allowing yourself a large work surface. You will also want to go to great lengths to keep the fabric clean -- try spreading bed sheets on the floor of your work area. I always store satin garments inside out when I'm not working on them, and drape a sheet over the fabric, just in case. Experiment to find the best machine stitch size, tension and needle size -- anything less than a perfectly sharp needle will create pull lines. You will also want to baste before you sew -- satins can be slippery and shifty, and once sewn, seams are difficult to alter, as the needle holes can be permanent. Experiment with pressing, too -- learn what your fabric likes. It may be able to tolerate moisture, it may not; it may respond well to high heat, it may not. After stitching, first press the seam flat to meld the stitches, then carefully press it open. Creases will be very difficult, if not impossible, to remove so take your time and go slowly, especially when pressing curved seams. Gently press using a ham and a silk-organza pressing cloth. Work your way slowly and patiently, inch by inch. You will find that your careful work will be beautifully reflected in this elegant fabric. (Susan Khalje is an author and host of DIY-Do It Yourself Network "Sew Much More" which airs weekdays at 2:00 P.M. ET. Contact her at skhalje@aol.com or Box 51 Long Green, MD 21092. For more information, visit www.SusanKhalje.com or www.diynet.com.)
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