| Dart Placement and Tricks |
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By Susan Khalje
DIY Do-It-Yourself Network Although darts are one of sewing's most basic tools, their placement, and the care with which they are marked, sewn and pressed, bear a little bit of consideration. A dart is, of course, a fold of fabric that is stitched in order to permanently take up a certain amount of fullness. If you are not sure of their exact placement (and remember, the darts on the tissue pattern are only a suggestion), then tissue-fit the garment, or make a muslin and mark the dart placement as it should be for your figure. Most commercial bodice patterns are made to fit a B-cup, and unless a bodice is shaped with princess seams or on the bias, the shaping will be achieved with darts. The dart (or darts) should point to the fullest part of the bust, of course, with the end point(s) an inch or so from the apex of the bust. Do not be afraid to adjust the darts and make sure that when you do you are wearing the correct undergarment. It will affect not only your figure, but the dart fullness and placement as well. Darts need to be marked, of course. You can use tailor's tacks but handle the garment carefully so that they do not pull out before you stitch the dart. Tracing paper also works but be sure that it does not show through to the right side of the fabric. Small cuts can be made into the seam allowance of the fabric but be careful that you do not clip too far. Everyone has their favorite method -- I met a sewer recently who marks the end point with an awl, which she carefully works into the fabric, being careful to separate, not cut into, the fibers. The dart legs, the lines along which you stitch, can be basted first. I would certainly baste when using any slippery fabric, such as satin, crepe or charmeuse, but careful pinning usually does the trick. I always stitch darts slowly since the dart is on an angle, the grains of the fabric can fight each other, and slow stitching will help control the fabric. Also, you might consider cutting into the dart pick-up material, the fabric between the dart legs, before you stitch; it may relieve some of the tension in the fabric. Do not backtrack when you get to the end of the dart. Instead, leave long thread tails and tie them securely. Make sure the last few stitches are parallel to the fold line -- this will help eliminate the little pucker that often forms at the end of a dart. Darts shape the fabric, of course, so they need to be pressed carefully over a ham. I like to press darts from the right side of the fabric, so that I do not inadvertently press in a crease. I always use a pressing cloth, though. The square of silk organza that I can see through, can also tolerate the hottest iron. I also usually pad out the dart by placing a strip of Kraft paper inside the garment, between the folded material of the dart and the fashion fabric. It is all too easy to press in an impression of the dart on the right side of the fabric. If too much of a fold line appears, even with careful pressing, you might want to cut down into the dart pick-up material, along the fold line. Although you are not removing any of the thickness of the dart, you are removing part of the fold, which is the part that is likely to show through and make a ridge on the right side of the garment. I hope these suggestions help the next time you' are stitching darts. By the way, I welcome your questions -- feel free to write or e-mail, and I will do my best to answer them. (Susan Khalje is an author and host of DIY-Do It Yourself Network "Sew Much More" which airs weekdays at 2:00 P.M. ET. Contact her atskhalje@aol.com or Box 51 Long Green, MD 21092. For more information, visit www.SusanKhalje.com or www.diynet.com.)
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