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Puttin' On the Knits
Knitty Gritty
Creative Juice
Sewing for the Home
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  • Reinforcing the Neck Seam
  • From "Sew Much More"
    episode SMM-229F
    advertisement

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

    The next problem area in knit garments is the neck, sometimes simply because it is in the round and difficult to sew.

    1. Cut a piece of fusible bias tape the length of the neck opening. Starting at the back of the neck, fuse (figure A) the tape to the wrong side of the fabric , aligning the edge of the tape with the raw edge of the neck opening. Press (figure B) the neck edge under 1/4" around the seam line.

    2. Topstitch around the neckline at a scant 1/4", just catching the raw edge in your stitching.

      Expert tip: If fusing the neck opening with fusible bias tape makes the fabric too stiff to press smoothly, try this technique:

    3. Cut a piece of double-sided fusible stay tape the length of the neck opening. Peel off (figure C) the layer of paper that sandwiches the fusing agent. Starting at the back of the neck, begin fusing the stay tape in place, clipping (figure D) every few inches in order to make the tape curve around the neck. Press the neck edge under 1/4" along the seam line.

    4. Topstitch around the neckline at a scant 1/4", just catching the raw edge in your stitching.

    Finishing Up

    1. With the right sides together, pin the sleeve to the bodice of the t-shirt. Match the dot on the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the bodice, and match front and back notches. Stitch around the bodice on top, keeping the raw edges aligned around the armhole. Press seams toward sleeve.

      Expert tip: It's easier to sew the interfacing before the piece is in the round or sewn together.

    2. Pin side seams of the t-shirt with right sides together, matching underarm seams and notches and stopping at the dot at the bottom. Press the seam open, clipping at the underarm if necessary for the seam to lie flat.

    3. Press up the hem on the sleeves at hemline. The hem will be fused in place by the interfacing.

    4. Wind a bobbin with woolly nylon thread by hand or by machine. Change to a double needle.

    5. Topstitch around the hem of the sleeve at 1/4", using the double needle and woolly nylon in the bobbin.

    6. Switch back to single needle and a bobbin with polyester thread.

    7. Miter corners at bottom of vent as directed in the pattern.

    8. Change back to double needle and woolly nylon bobbin.

    9. Topstitch around hem, starting at center back and pivoting at corners of vent.

      Note: Lift the double needle out of the fabric and then position it when pivoting.



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