Materials: Embellished shoulder yoke overlays Front and back sections of Lapel Coat cut from dark-blue indigo (underlined with cotton muslin) Dark-navy Essex (cotton/ linen fabric) Cording (approximately 2 to 2-1/4 yards size 3/32 or 5/32) Sewing supplies: sewing thread to match fabric; smoky monofilament thread; rotary cutter and mat; ruler Machine equipment: piping foot; needle #80 Machine setting: Pattern: Straight stitch Stitch length: 5 (machine-baste) Stitch width: 0 Needle position: Far right Using rotary cutter, mat and ruler, cut 1-1/2" bias strips of fabric. Cut lengths of cording approximately 1" longer than diagonal edge to be finished . Wrap fabric strip around cording, bringing raw edges together. Place covered cording underneath groove of piping foot and machine-baste to hold . Place fabric-covered piping against right side of overlay along diagonal edge. Secure with pins. Place covered piping underneath groove of piping foot and adjust needle position to left of first row of stitching so that it is up against cording. Shorten stitch length to normal setting and stitch. Turn raw seam edges of long diagonal side underneath and press. Main garment pieces will be underlined with cotton muslin to provide body to garment shape, support embellishment technique and reduce wrinkling. Place wrong side of overlay on top of right side of fashion fabric (dark-blue indigo ). To attach the overlay to garment, adjust needle position so that needle will pierce ditch between piping and overlay. (These stitches will be hidden in the ditch and invisible to the eye.) Change upper thread to smoky-color monofilament thread. Stitch. Fold back overlay and trim away the dark-blue fashion fabric. Then grade the seam allowances down to reduce bulk. Leave muslin underlining in tack. Fold overlay back in place.
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