Materials: Pattern (the Lapel Coat -- medium size) Fashion fabric (Sandwashed Essex cotton/linen blend, dark- and light-blue indigo , 56" wide; Navy Essex, approximately 1/2 yard for corded piping) Underlining (quilter's muslin from P&B fabrics) Batting (Hobbs Thermora) Backing (100 percent cotton batiste for pintucking technique) Lining Sewing notions: sewing thread (light-, medium- and dark-blue to match fabric0; monofilament invisible thread (smoky); #5 perle cotton (DMC 794), at least 2 skeins; designer threads (indigo blue from On The Surface, at least 2 cards); lightweight tearaway stabilizer; temporary fabric spray adhesive; cording (size 3/32 or 5/32), approx . 2.25 yards; 2 buttons Sewing equipment: Dixon washable chalk pencil; grid ruler; 1-1/2" acrylic template (optional); hem gauge (used to mark seam lines and curved areas); straight pins; rotary cutter and mat; #80 regular sewing needle; 3.0 #90 twin needle (regular); pattern paper Sewing Feet: braiding foot; piping foot; 3-groove pintuck foot; blind-hem foot Steps: Fashion fabric (light-blue sandwashed cotton/linen) Dixon washable chalk pencil Grid ruler Hem gauge Pattern piece (shoulder yoke overlay) #5 perle cotton Dark-blue sewing thread Designer threads Monofilament invisible thread Lightweight tearaway stabilizer Temporary fabric spray adhesive Machine equipment: braiding foot #80 sewing needle, regular Machine Settings (first layer of plaid) Pattern: Blanket stitch Stitch length: 4 Stitch width: 2 Machine Settings (second layer of plaid) Pattern: Narrow zigzag Stitch length: 2 Stitch width: 2 Note: Work using a rectangle shape. Do not cut out pattern pieces from fashion fabric until embellishment technique is completed. Work using a rectangle shape to avoid distorting the cut pattern shapes. Steps (make a total of 4 shoulder yoke overlays for TV project): Make one copy of the pattern piece (shoulder yoke overlay) for mirror image. Place patterns against right side of fabric facing each other as they will lay on garment with approximately 1" around the outside edges and trace shapes; mark seam allowances. Using Dixon washable chalk pencil and grid ruler, draw a 1" grid within pattern shape on a 45-degree angle. Separate drawn shapes into individual rectangles and attach tear away stabilizer with a temporary spray adhesive (505 or KK2000) Choose decorative stitch (Blanket Stitch) and set machine settings (see above) Upper thread - Dark blue; lower thread dark blue; couched thread - 2 strands #5 perle cotton To create wave effect, stitch a soft S shape changing directions at the drawn intersections . Stitch every other line with the perle cotton strands. For second layer of the plaid, select a decorative thread to be couched down. Use smoky color monofilament for upper thread. (see above)Complete couching by covering the remaining drawn lines. Remove any visible signs of the lines. Tear away stabilizer from back side. Place pattern on top to check the shape and cut out overlay shapes.
RESOURCES :
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Palmer/Pletsch Publishing
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