DIY Network

Wild Fiber Crochet: Freeform Crochet Handbag Here's a way to sample a variety of yarns — in high style! From "Uncommon Threads" episode DUCT-252

Allison Whitlock and members of the Stitch Café Stitchers create an extraordinary crocheted handbag from organic fibers such as wool roving, bamboo yarn, soy and banana.

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Freeform Crochet Handbag

Materials:

yarn (see suggested selections, below)
crochet hook, US size J (also have on hand sizes I and K)
tapestry needle
small scissors
4-6 oz. wool roving (each split into thick 1" strips, approximately 2' long)
2 handles (or a material from which to make purse straps)
fabric suitable for lining

Suggested yarn selections:

recycled sari silk (1 skein)
banana silk (1 skein)
hemp yarn and string (3 yds.)
soy silk (1 skein)
bamboo yarn (1 skein)
silk ribbon (3 yd.)
raffia, string, jute, sisal and twine (3 yd.)
suede strips
leftover skeins of natural yarns
novelty yarns with lots of feathering and eyelash
any fine fuzzy mohair.
hand-dyed wools and cottons
chenille and textured yarns

Natural Fiber Notes

Banana silk: The stalk of the banana plant is processed and used for a variety of yarns, ranging from coarse to very fine. It is usually hand-dyed, therefore the colors may run.

Recycled sari silk: This twisted fiber is made in Nepal of unused bolt ends from the sari manufacturers. The colors and textures vary with each skein.

Bamboo, Tencel® (lyocell), pakucho (Peruvian cotton), wheat and soy yarns: These yarns are all made from the pulp of the raw plants. Very soft to the touch but also very sturdy, they are great for creating bags and are available in many colors.

Abbreviations:

ch chain
dc double crochet
sc single crochet
sl st slipstitch
st stitch
yo yarn over

Figure A

Freeform Crochet Handbag

1. Holding 2 or 3 yarns/fibers together, ch50 (figure A).

Note: Varying the number of chain stitches you start with will adjust the finished size of the bag accordingly. For instance, ch30 makes a pouch-sized bag rather than a purse.

Figure B

2. Without twisting the chain, sl st into the first ch to form a ring (figure B).

Note: The bag is created inside out, so the side you're working on is actually the inside of the bag. Whenever you use a textured yarn in crochet, work the stitch from the opposite side so the textures sit on the front of the row as the stitch is worked. The bag will be turned inside out when finished.

Figure C

3. Sc 1 row with the same fibers. At the end of each row, sl st to join and ch1. Continue to work 3 sc rows (figure C).

Tip: As you continue, you will be adding in new yarns every two or three rows, but keeping one of the yarns continuous throughout the whole bag is useful as a unifying element.

Adding Wool Roving

Figure D

1. Sc around the roving itself. Lay a piece of roving out to the left, fold the end over about 2" and lay it on top of the beginning of the next row (figure D).

Tip: Think about the juxtaposition of soft and hard fibers. Something like raffia works very well around the roving to give it a variety of textures.

Figure E

2. Work 1 sc in the next ch by inserting the hook under the roving and into the first st below. Yo and pull a long loop through.

3. Yo above the roving and pull through both loops on hook. Tighten the st as much as necessary to keep an even tension around the bag (figure E).

Figure F

Tip: Use your left hand to hold the roving in place as you crochet around it. You can push into the stitches as you go with your right index finger if more texture is desired. To do this, push a little more roving to the right and front to bunch it up, then insert hook under roving, yo and pull up a long loop to complete the stitch (figure F).

4. Continue to sc around the roving into each st below for one whole row.

Tip: Varying the sizes of the bumps helps create a more uniquely interesting appearance as you crochet over the roving.

5. Just before ending the row, cut the roving, fold under the end and crochet over it to complete the row.

Note: If you want to continue the roving into the next row, there's no need to cut it. Instead, when reaching the end of the row, sl st to the first st and ch1. Bring the roving up over the beginning of the row previously finished and continue to sc around it.

6. Change yarns frequently. Cut the fibers used and add in new fibers. Generally work 2 rows with each type and then change out one or two of the three being used. If using thicker fibers, try changing only one or two at a time.

Tips:

• By always continuing at least one of the previous yarns, a striping effect is avoided because it blends with the new yarns into the next rows.

• When different thicknesses of yarn are being used, the shape of the bag can be kept uniform by keeping the overall thickness of the various fiber combinations consistent.

• If yarns are sticking together and you find it's becoming more difficult to crochet, try switching to a larger hook. Some combinations of yarns work better with larger hooks.

7. When you're using a smoother yarn and you want to see the sc st on the front of the bag, sl st and ch1 when reaching the end of the row; then turn the bag and work from the opposite side.

8. Continue to work from this side until you're ready to switch to a textured yarn or add roving. For a textured row, complete the previous row of smoother yarn, then sl st to join and ch1. Now turn the bag and continue in the opposite direction from the original side, which is the inside of the bag.

9. Continue to create the bag for as many rows as you wish. Generally 12-14 rows creates
a pouch with a finished size of 6"-7" square; 16-20 rows creates a purse approximately 9" high by 12" wide (the size varies depending upon the tightness of the crochet) (figure G).

10. If you wish, try adding a band of novelty or eyelash yarn on the top edge by combining the additional yarn with one of the previous yarns and continue to sc a few more rows until reaching the desired size (figure H).

Figure G

Figure H

Finishing

1. Before turning the bag inside out, first match up the bottoms and whipstitch the seams closed using one of the yarns from the first row. Then turn the bag inside out and pull all the textured pieces to the front with a smaller crochet hook.

Figure I

2. Attach handles using suede strip (or other type of strong yarn) and whipstitch to bag.

3. Sew in a simple lining made to the exact size of the inside of the bag. Do an invisible stitch matching the lining to the inside about 1⁄2" below the top edge.

4. Try adding embellishments to the bag, if you wish. Glass beads, charms, bells, whistles, fringe, flowers or feathers all work nicely (figure I).

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