DIY Network

Iconic Horse-Racing Doily: The Art of Filet Crochet and Reading Charts The classic art of filet crochet is simplified in this charming doily. From "Uncommon Threads" episode DUCT-206

Regina Rioux Gonzalez explains and demonstrates filet crochet and makes a horse-themed doily using the technique.

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	Horse-Racing Doily
	PDF Click here for a printable version of the chart.

Materials:

1 ball DMC perle cotton crochet thread, size 8
steel crochet hook, US size 7
tapestry needle
chart

• Often used to crochet doilies, filet crochet is a method of forming designs with solid and openwork squares called blocks, or meshes.

• The only stitches used in this project are chain stitch (ch) and double crochet (dc)

• In the grid, squares are either open or filled. The blank squares equal what is called an open mesh, and the X squares represent what is called a solid mesh.

• Read the chart from right to left and left to right.

• A good way to keep track when using the chart or board is to use a magnet.

3 dc filet:
In a pattern that uses 3 dc to form each block (solid mesh), each block consists of 3 dc. When there are two blocks side by side, the blocks share a common dc in the center, so there will be 5 dc in that group of two blocks. Likewise, three blocks side by side = 7 dc.

Reading a chart:
Filet crochet designs or patterns are worked from a chart. On the chart, the blank square equals an open mesh. The symbol shows what this open mesh would look like on a stitch symbols diagram. To make an open mesh, ch 2, skip next 2 chs, dc in next dc; or if working an open mesh above a filled block in the previous row, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc.

• The beginning open mesh (beginning space in row) is made by ch 5, skip next 2 sts, dc in next dc.

• Be precise and follow the pattern exactly, because if an open mesh block is put in the wrong place, it can ruin the whole design.

• On a chart, the X equals a solid mesh. The symbol shows what this solid mesh would look like on a stitch symbols diagram. To make a solid mesh, dc in next 3 dc, or if a block occurs above an open mesh in the previous row, 2 dc in next ch sp, dc in next dc.
  
  
• The beginning solid mesh (beginning block) is made by ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch sp, dc in next dc or dc in next 3 dc.

• Looking at the chart, there are 48 blocks across. To determine how many sts are required for the foundation chain, with filet crochet you always double the blocks, add one more stitch and then ch 2 to begin. So with this particular chart, it'll always be 97 sts across.

• Including the ch 2 to begin, ch a total of 99 for this foundation ch. Then begin the chart (see pdf). Ends should be woven in when the work is finished but not trimmed before blocking.

Blocking

Blocking keeps the work straight and in a square shape. It's a simple technique that needs to be done each time the piece is washed.

Blocking

Materials:

spray starch
rust-resistant pins
blocking board made from cardboard and towel or ironing board
pillowcase or muslin
basin of gentle soap and cold water

Preparing the filet crochet doily for blocking:
Wash the article and rinse it thoroughly (preferably hand-wash with gentle soap in cold water). Squeeze out the excess moisture with a towel (do not wring or rub).

Preparing the blocking surface:
Put a plain pillowcase or other smooth fabric such as muslin over a thick, padded surface that can be pinned into (the ironing board works well) and secure it in place using rust-resistant pins. If there is not a suitable surface available, make one by padding two or three layers of corrugated cardboard with a towel and clamping it with bulldog clips (or clothespins) around the outside so the towel and pillowcase are flat and smooth and won't shift.

Stretching and pinning the doily on the blocking surface to its finished dimensions:
Push a pin straight down through the very middle of the article and into the padded surface; this anchors the middle. Never pierce the thread with the pin -- pin in between the stitches.

Pull and tug one outer edge as far as it will go (keeping the center anchored) and pin it in place. Don't try to pin straight down here; the work is under tension and will pull the pin out. Instead pin at an angle so the pin is leaning away from the item. Now do the same on the opposite side.

The article is square, so it has obvious corners. Begin with those. Pull out and pin the edge halfway between and do the same on the opposite side.

Continue around, pulling and pinning first one side and then the opposite side until the whole article is evenly pinned all around at intervals that keep it nicely in shape. Using a T-square to will make sure the edges are square, or do a visual test. Look at the article and tug or push any areas in the design that don't seem quite right (elements that are off-center or bumpy instead of flat, for example).

If necessary, pin inner areas of the article.

Leave it out to dry. If it's a warm day, leave it in the sun for a few hours.

If desired, spray the doily with spray starch after pinning (this step is optional).

GUESTS :

Regina Rioux Gonzalez
E-mail: ladylinoleum@monstercrochet.com
Website: www.monstercrochet.com